By NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Nov 17, 2011
| This inspired me to set this as a long term goal as well. 30 5.12's before (or during) 30. I will be turning 26 in February and climbing 5.10 in the gym (which is supposedly super sandbagged) but still trying to break through the wall (around 5.8-5.9) where you are climbing as hard as you feel comfortable climbing without falling due to the angle making it mostly no fall situations and climbing steeper stuff where falling becomes an option so right now I basically have to on-sight everything but am trying to start getting on stuff steep enough to have clean falls and thus be able to project. My original goal is an outdoor 5.10 within a year of starting back up after a 6 year break (climbed 5.9 6 years ago before the break) and I think I will get it WAY ahead of schedule like maybe this weekend so its going to be time for a new goal. | 
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By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From Aspen, CO
Nov 17, 2011
| Will S wrote: So you've never redpointed a 12, and you're going to send 31 of them in the next 10 months? The term "highly unlikely" comes to mind.
Why do you say that's "highly unlikely"? If I'm already repointing multiple 11+'s within 3 tries then 5.12 isn't a far stretch at all and after a winter of committed training this goal should definitely be achievable. |
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By Adam Sanders
From Louisville, CO
Nov 17, 2011
| Glad to help get you psyched, Josh!
I just wrote a blog post with some things I learned during the process - check it out! Its nothing profound, but hopefully some fun reading.
How YOU Can Achieve 5.12 Glory |
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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Nov 17, 2011
| SkiNowWorkLater wrote: Why do you say that's "highly unlikely"? If I'm already repointing multiple 11+'s within 3 tries then 5.12 isn't a far stretch at all and after a winter of committed training this goal should definitely be achievable.
Right. So you train all winter, and are PSYCHED. Chances of injury or overuse that limits improvement ~40%. This is what I've seen from training in gyms since the early 1990s. They get pysched, they train hard, they don't add volume gradually and they end up with flamed elbows or blow up pulleys. I've done it in the past, I see it all the time.
But we'll assume you make it through the training with no issues. Now it's what, March or April? So you've really got ~5months. If you are weekend warrior, that's ~22 weekends. Now you probably get shitty weather on at least 2 weekends, so call it 20. Now you have to RP 1.5 routes every trip. If there are 31 5.12a routes around, probably reasonable. But now you're climbing at your limit EVERY time you go climbing. Which is also hard on the body, and hard on belayers. Unless you have someone with similar goals, or a very accomodating girlfriend or something, it's one more issue.
So you've got a willing belay slave, soft 12a's close to home, bitchin' weather, and injury free. Now you've got to actually perform. Hard routes can be beta intensive, do you have a partner of similar abilities to split the workload of figuring out the beta? Or do you spent half your energy figuring out the moves, then have to send quickly before running out of gas?
Do you have no life outside climbing such that you will spend ALL those 20 weekends climbing? Are you really motiveated to just tick another shitty route that has a magic "12" attached to it because it's one of the few remaining in your local area that is do-able for you?
Finally, 12d is a lot harder than 11d. I've seen strong talented kids get there (11+ to 12+) in a year. I've not seen slightly above average people get there in 6mo. The point being, you will likely run out of easier 12s on your quest and have to climb harder, or you will be doing a lot of driving.
Don't mistake me, I'm not saying you can't do it. I'm saying it is highly unlikely for the reasons above. Personally, I hope you do it, big goals are cool. Again, I rec putting American Fork on your list. The climbing will yield well to gym-training (as opposed to techie sub-vert granite, or enduro fingerstack/ringlock cracks), the routes tend to be short, there are lots of 12s, and lots of chalk/beta. |
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By Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Nov 17, 2011
| Saint George is 4 hours away. He can start redpointing this weekend; why wait until March? |
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By lewisslc
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Nov 17, 2011
| i am the one who originally posted this 'goal', and all the replies have been great, and helpful...but i think a few of the newer post may be missing my point...it is not 'ticking' of the magic .12...certainly not. It is about setting a really hard goal for oneself and working it out. One of the main objectives in climbing (or anything else in life for that matter,) is the effort put forth with the willingness to fail, and not being too attached to a certain outcome.
It is about opening your eyes to the possibilities around the self and w/in this silly reality of life, and making something worth even more.
Again, thanks for all the post...i have taken something away from every one...for those who are interested i will keep you all informed of my progress...thank you, and keep being kind... |
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By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From Aspen, CO
Nov 17, 2011
| lewisslc wrote: i am the one who originally posted this 'goal', and all the replies have been great, and helpful...but i think a few of the newer post may be missing my point...it is not 'ticking' of the magic .12...certainly not. It is about setting a really hard goal for oneself and working it out. One of the main objectives in climbing (or anything else in life for that matter,) is the effort put forth with the willingness to fail, and not being too attached to a certain outcome. It is about opening your eyes to the possibilities around the self and w/in this silly reality of life, and making something worth even more. Again, thanks for all the post...i have taken something away from every one...for those who are interested i will keep you all informed of my progress...thank you, and keep being kind...
Amen! |
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By s.price
From PS,CO
Nov 19, 2011
| lewisslc wrote: i am the one who originally posted this 'goal', and all the replies have been great, and helpful...but i think a few of the newer post may be missing my point...it is not 'ticking' of the magic .12...certainly not. It is about setting a really hard goal for oneself and working it out. One of the main objectives in climbing (or anything else in life for that matter,) is the effort put forth with the willingness to fail, and not being too attached to a certain outcome. It is about opening your eyes to the possibilities around the self and w/in this silly reality of life, and making something worth even more. Again, thanks for all the post...i have taken something away from every one...for those who are interested i will keep you all informed of my progress...thank you, and keep being kind...
Ignore the naysayers! I am a working class stiff and managed my 51 at 45 from January to mid July. Before this i had only sent a handful of 12s. Naysayers are typically just trying to bring you down to their level and it is obvious you hold yourself to a higher standard. As i said before, UNWAVERING FOCUS!! "I succeed because i fail over and over again" a quote from the great Michael Jordan. |
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By JasonJNSmith
From Denver
Dec 24, 2011
| Where is everyone at? Lets hear it. I like big goals and New Years isn't far off. I like the age idea. I turned 32 on September 15 and actively haven't been trying to climb thirty three five twelves but I have been getting after it. Its Shelf Road season here in Colorado and I think I can get a bunch of twelves in before it starts getting hot down there. I am going to set a short term goal for shelf.
I will redpoint EIGHT routes graded 5.12 or harder by April 30th. This would put me at 23 since my birthday. I would have May-September (5 months) to do ten more. Two a month! This might be attainable. |
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By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From Aspen, CO
Dec 26, 2011
| JJNS wrote: Where is everyone at? Lets hear it. I like big goals and New Years isn't far off. I like the age idea. I turned 32 on September 15 and actively haven't been trying to climb thirty three five twelves but I have been getting after it. Its Shelf Road season here in Colorado and I think I can get a bunch of twelves in before it starts getting hot down there. I am going to set a short term goal for shelf. I will redpoint EIGHT routes graded 5.12 or harder by April 30th. This would put me at 23 since my birthday. I would have May-September (5 months) to do ten more. Two a month! This might be attainable.
I don't turn 31 for another month, so haven't started yet; it's ski season right now. I have been in the gym 3 times a week training and working on strenth and especially my technique, which I think was a limiter for me last year and hopefully will lead to improvement for next year. |
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By ErikaNW
Dec 26, 2011
| 4 climbs done towards my very humble goal of 43 5.10's by Nov 2012. It has been a fun project so far, and hopefully it will help me start breaking into the 11's next summer. |
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By Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Dec 27, 2011
| I think this is a great idea! Before my accident 1.5 years ago I was breaking into the 12s. I think I'm getting close to that level again. I'm gonna set my goal at twelve 5.12's in 2012.
I think it'll be several months still before I bag my first one, but I'll post back here when I start making progress on it! |
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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 27, 2011
| I would like to have easier bowel movements. How can I train for this? |
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By Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Dec 27, 2011
| bergbryce wrote: I would like to have easier bowel movements. How can I train for this?
More ab workouts and more fiber. |
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By Paul U Roberts
From Prescott, Arizona
Dec 28, 2011
| This idea is to great to not join in on, after reading through the forum you certainly do see what climbing is truly about. Keep out the negative vibes and bring in the positive, don't listen to anyone doubting you, and that goes for everyone in this forum.
I pledge to climb 19 5.10's on lead trad and sport before September 23 2012 |
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By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From Aspen, CO
Apr 9, 2012
| Sweet! I'm at 7/31 so far. I was able to RP three 12a's and one 12a/b this past weekend. Looks like all that winter training is paying off! Time to start getting on some 12b's! |
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By Paul U Roberts
From Prescott, Arizona
Apr 9, 2012
| Im at 5/19. and from what i said on my last comment…they'v been .11's more than they have been 10s haha. guess I had a little more in me than i thought |
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By lewisslc
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Apr 9, 2012
| That's great to read everyone's progress...sounds like there is a lot of great starts to the season & everyone's goals...i, however, have gotten a very slow start...only one down, 30 to go...will be attempting a .12b this week & hopefully get that confidence back...keep at it everyone... |
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By Andrewprime1
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 9, 2012
| I like this idea quite a bit, I turn 21 in july with a handful of 12s under my belt already. I am going to shoot for 21 RPs before July 12th! |
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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 23, 2012
| Boom. 2 out of 20 down. Most likely the best sport climb in north america, so yeah, I'm pretty psyched.
The Perfect Child 5.13a |
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By lewisslc
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Apr 23, 2012
| that's great! Congrats! That picture is awesome, by the way...looks like a great climb... i Redpointed a 12a/b yesterday (finally! Been about a month since my first one). Ha, only 29 more to go. Better then 30 more to go though....Keep the updates coming! Love to hear them |
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By JasonJNSmith
From Denver
Apr 23, 2012
| 17 down, 16 to go. I ruptured an A3/4 pulley in my left ring finger three weeks ago so that might set me back a bit. |
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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Apr 23, 2012
| Hahahahha I'm 40 this year and already downed one 40-ouncer. 39 to go. I set my goals low. |
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