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31 5.12 redpoints before i turn 31
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By lewisslc
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Nov 14, 2011

i have a plan: 31 5.12 redpoints next year before sept 06 2012. This is what i am training for over the winter...might not sound too difficult but i have only led 1 12, and it i haven't got it on redpoint...what i need are suggestions....best 31 5.12 climbs in and around Utah...any suggestions?


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By cheifitj
From Boulder, Colorado
Nov 14, 2011
Casual Route Pitch 3  <br />Photo by Mark Cushman

Great goal!
Best of luck to you. Train hard, climb harder.

-Jon


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By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From Aspen, CO
Nov 14, 2011
Pup Tent OS

I like your goal! I turn 31 in January so I'll set a goal of 31 5.12 redpoints during my 31st year. Like you, my hardest redpoint is 5.11d; I have gotten on a few 12a's but haven't redpointed any yet. This is going to be a big training winter!


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By lewisslc
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Nov 14, 2011

nice man...we should keep eachother updated on our progress...


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By Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Nov 14, 2011
Me scaring years off my mom's life

I turn 31 on October 23 of next year. I'm in!


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By DBarton
From CENTENNIAL, CO
Nov 14, 2011
Moab, Potash Road and Ice Cream Parlor

Good luck, should be fun. Maybe I will shoot for 29?


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By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From Aspen, CO
Nov 14, 2011
Pup Tent OS

lewisslc wrote:
nice man...we should keep eachother updated on our progress...


Cool let's do it. Anyone else too; we can keep track in this thread if we want.


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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Nov 14, 2011
Yoda

I love everything about this post. If you come through Boulder I'll hang the draws and belay!


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By Daniel Winder
Nov 14, 2011

I turn 31 in December. Hardest RP is also 11d (might have been soft?). Just put up a HIT wall under my basement stairs though, so I'm all in! A few that come to mind around Salt Lake are Big in Japan, Fuego, Highlander, Left Pile, the Dry Wall, and there's probably a few a Hellgate that should be baggable.


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By Joshua1979
From Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 15, 2011

Since we have a 29 yr old getting in on the party perhaps a soon to be 32 yr old can participate. I'll be 32 this Dec. and my skills aren't quite to that level (not to mention there are not enough days left to get to make that happen)...but I will try for 32 5.12 RP's before I turn 32. I don't usually work routes for more than a couple tries...currently on sighting fairly consistent at 10d's and can get most 11's I've come across in the same day if I try so I think this may be reasonable. It's a good goal anyway...thanks for the suggestion.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Nov 15, 2011
El Chorro

I like this idea. I don't think I've ever hit my age in 5.12s. I might have if I had set a goal to do so!

Too bad I've chosen my 28th year to get my life together instead of climb. I might get a lot of climbing in this year, or I might get less than 20 days outside. Time will tell. Maybe if I count V4's and V5's I'll make it to 28!


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By lewisslc
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Nov 15, 2011

This is great...didn't really think i'd get this kind of response...i was just bored at work...really really great tho...as many people as we can doing this next season would be wonderful...perhaps we should get a definite group together...try to get some exposure....because it really isn't too late for anything right? It is all perspective...keep in touch with ideas everyone...


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By lewisslc
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Nov 15, 2011

All your replies have me smiling on this winter SLC day...great. Perhaps it should be as many people as possible doing their age in hardest redpoints...begining March 1, 2012 (my goal's end is sept 5, turn 31 on sept 6). So if your hardest redpoint is 5.8, do your age in 5.8 redpoints! Grade doesn't matter. Pushing personal limits and surpassing those limits is what matters! i would love to track this, but don't really know how to...if anyone is truely interested in this and could help, maybe a website, something...not sure, let me know.


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Nov 15, 2011
At the BRC

Hmm, I'm not sure I can get 55 12's before my next birthday. Do gym routes count?


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By lewisslc
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Nov 15, 2011

pushing your limits to absolute tautness is what counts...make a goal, a hard goal, and work towards it, i say! and then, yes, it counts...be proud of it...


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By Adam Sanders
From Louisville, CO
Nov 15, 2011
things are looking up

If you're feeling too old (or young) to use your age as you goal, try this:
Last January I set a goal of 20 12's by 2012. Now just tweak it to 20 12's IN 2012 and it works. Then, next year you'll be strong enough to do 20 13's in 2013! I think we'll have to settle for something less catchy in 2014...

This goal has been so much fun, and seemed impossible at first, but as you start gaining strength, it starts to move quickly. This was the first time I ever really set a goal in climbing and it is amazing what it can make you achieve. I hope you all have a blast pursuing this!


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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Nov 15, 2011
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

Lander's not too far away... tons of good 12s over there for some spring and summer road trips!
There's always the Creek.


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By josh holmes
Nov 15, 2011
a picture of rocks

I agree with Nick (Indian Creek) and The Larry (Maple Canyon).
Here's another idea for lofty goals to aspire to:
100 miles and 100 boulder problems


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By s.price
From PS,CO
Nov 16, 2011
 Morning Dew ,self portrait

I set the same goal a few years back for my 45th year. Just commit with unwavering focus and you'll do it. I actually ended up with 51 in 7 months. Don't think i could pull it off now as old,creaky elbows just ain't what they use to be.


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By lewisslc
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Nov 16, 2011

'unwavering focus', great advice...i like it...thank you.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Nov 16, 2011

So you've never redpointed a 12, and you're going to send 31 of them in the next 10 months?

The term "highly unlikely" comes to mind. American Fork should be on your list, close to home, lots of 12s. When you're barely scratching at the number and trying to send a ton of them, quality isn't going to be your first consideration...catering to your strengths and proximity to home will be important.

Of course I'm assuming you're a working stiff and not on the bum circuit. Good luck, and add volume and difficulty to your training very gradually or suffer the inflammation and sidelining from overuse.


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By JPVallone
Nov 16, 2011

That's a sweet goal, Good luck!

I'm getting a late start but I am gonna try and drink 36 PBR 30 packs and 36 handles of Jack before I turn 37 next July, Wish me luck.

I know it doesn't sound that tough, but there are 1080 PBR's alone without factoring in the Whiskey and about 200 days to do it. I'm not sure what I got myself into, but I have a feeling it will get easier as my tolerance goes up.


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By ErikaNW
Nov 16, 2011
Rapping off the Matron October, 2010

Can't imagine leading 5.12 is ever going to be in my future (no matter how 'soft' the crag is), but I will strive towards 43 5.10's before next November. Great idea - thanks for coming up with it!


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By Javier L
From Asheville, NC
Nov 16, 2011
Bermuda, DWS

Great idea! I'm hitting 31 in 4 months and I've not sent my first 12 but I'm setting up a hit wall soon along with a hangboard to help me train at home. I'm aiming for 31 while 31 (or maybe 32 by 32?). Unfortunately the New will be out season in a couple weeks but I think this will keep me motivated to train hard during the off season. Thanks for posting.


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By Josh Kornish
Nov 16, 2011
The Roach

Adam Sanders wrote:
If you're feeling too old (or young) to use your age as you goal, try this: Last January I set a goal of 20 12's by 2012. Now just tweak it to 20 12's IN 2012 and it works. Then, next year you'll be strong enough to do 20 13's in 2013! I think we'll have to settle for something less catchy in 2014... This goal has been so much fun, and seemed impossible at first, but as you start gaining strength, it starts to move quickly. This was the first time I ever really set a goal in climbing and it is amazing what it can make you achieve. I hope you all have a blast pursuing this!


Thank you for my new goal!!

20 5.12 RPs in 2012

Ten Sleep will be seeing quite of bit of me. Good Luck to all!


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By NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Nov 17, 2011

This inspired me to set this as a long term goal as well. 30 5.12's before (or during) 30. I will be turning 26 in February and climbing 5.10 in the gym (which is supposedly super sandbagged) but still trying to break through the wall (around 5.8-5.9) where you are climbing as hard as you feel comfortable climbing without falling due to the angle making it mostly no fall situations and climbing steeper stuff where falling becomes an option so right now I basically have to on-sight everything but am trying to start getting on stuff steep enough to have clean falls and thus be able to project. My original goal is an outdoor 5.10 within a year of starting back up after a 6 year break (climbed 5.9 6 years ago before the break) and I think I will get it WAY ahead of schedule like maybe this weekend so its going to be time for a new goal.


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