Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Tanner Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
.54 Chunk 'o Lead 
30,000 Casualties 
Amp Left 
Amp Right 
Bull Run 
Chickamauga 
Clippers and Saws 
Flee 
Gimp Verde 
Hanging Judge 
Harper's Ferry 
Kennesaw Mountain 
Landscape Architect 
March To The Sea 
Merrimac, The 
Midlife Crisis 
Nathan Forrest 
Pendejo 
Penny Lane 
Rebel Yell 
Rightist 
Tanner Classic 
Two Fine People 
Unknown 
Vicksburg 
Zing 
Unsorted Routes:

30,000 Casualties 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Lumsford/Schmausser
Page Views: 2,291
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Oct 24, 2004
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
30,000 Casualities.

Steeper than it looks.
Seasonal falcon nesting closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb is located on the Civil Wall, immediately to the right of Tanner Dome.

Just right of the chimney which marks the start of several climbs on Civil Wall, this excellent mixed route climbs the most obvious weakness on a steep pink-granite face.

The first part climbs a trickier-than-it-looks face past bolts to an exciting stand-up move over a bulge. Those with more patience than I may be able to better protect with RPs in a seam here. Clip another bolt, then traverse left to the crack. Jam the steep crack up to a ledge, then wander up featured rock to the anchor. The crack is strenuous and very crystalline, so you may want to consider taping.


Protection 

QDs and standard rack to 2 inches.



Comments on 30,000 Casualties Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nelson Lunsford
Nov 12, 2007

Thanks Joe for the comments on 30,000. This is a very fun route with a short crack section needing traditional gear. One #3, #2, #1, #0.75, and a #0.5 Camalot should get any climber through this section. I'm constantly seeing biners left on the last bolt.

There are many mixed routes at Tanner Dome and other locations in the Wet Mountains. If you are not absolutely sure about gear on any given route, take a set of Camalots and a set on nuts and you will be rewarded with excellent safe climbing.

By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Mar 21, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Another beauty, Nelson! For me, the crux was the funky bulge below the last bolt. The crack takes great gear and has decent hand jams. Be careful of some loose rocks in the crack by the anchor. An area classic for sure.