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30 Seconds to All Night 
Big Gay Al's Supercrack of the Slum 
Drill Wavin' New Haven 
Kinesthesis 
Nickle And Dime 
Sheetz of Wrath 
That 70 Show 
West Rock Crack 

30 Seconds to All Night 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Mobley
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 9 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 118
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Oct 7, 2013
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CB working the crux

Description 

This fine route has a defined crux early on gaining the main arete and then cruises up the arete, followed by a short traverse to the Kinesthesis anchors. Start on the larger grassy ledge below and right of the start for Kinesthesis. Work some easy moves up a flake past two bolts to the left side of the arete. From here make the 5.10 moves stepping out right onto the slab and using holds on the right side. Make a move to the obvious jug on the right side of the arete and continue up a move or two to a good stance to clip the 3rd bolt. Follow the left side arete up past five more bolts to top of the arete. Either traverse left along good holds/feet along the face 2 ft or so before the lip or traverse left along the lip for more open handed climbing.

CAUTION: There is a large loose block in the crack below the small pine tree. Do not disturb!


Protection 

8 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchors (Kinethesis Anchors) w/ optional shared bolt on ledge out left.



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