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Ballfield Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
30 Seconds to All Night S 
Big Gay Al's Supercrack of the Slum T 
Drill Wavin' New Haven S 
Kinesthesis S 
Nickle And Dime S 
Sheetz of Wrath TR 
That 70 Show T,S 
West Rock Crack T 

30 Seconds to All Night 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Mobley
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 9 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 317
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Oct 7, 2013

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CB working the crux

Description 

This fine route has a defined crux early on gaining the main arete and then cruises up the arete, followed by a short traverse to the Kinesthesis anchors. Start on the larger grassy ledge below and right of the start for Kinesthesis. Work some easy moves up a flake past two bolts to the left side of the arete. From here make the 5.10 moves stepping out right onto the slab and using holds on the right side. Make a move to the obvious jug on the right side of the arete and continue up a move or two to a good stance to clip the 3rd bolt. Follow the left side arete up past five more bolts to top of the arete. Either traverse left along good holds/feet along the face 2 ft or so before the lip or traverse left along the lip for more open handed climbing.

CAUTION: There is a large loose block in the crack below the small pine tree. Do not disturb!

Protection 

8 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchors (Kinethesis Anchors) w/ optional shared bolt on ledge out left.


Comments on 30 Seconds to All Night Add Comment
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By thebmags
Jul 24, 2014

interesting crux move than followed by super easy fun climbing
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jul 25, 2014

Did u climb this recently? Like in the summer sun?
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jul 29, 2014

Did u go left or right hand up for the crux?