This is one of the classic must-do moderate routes. It almost always has someone on it or in line (sorta like Supercrack at IC). And it's definitely worth the wait. Expect a sustained climb with three definite parts, and good rests in between each - it's harder than it looks, and the cruxes are pumpy.
Reach the climb about 350 feet (less than .1 mile) past a large break in the otherwise solid wall of Wall Street. If you pass a long (several hundred feet) section of lower angled slabs, you've gone too far.
Lieback and jam a left-facing corner (with a couple of face features for variety) at the right end of a 3-car turnout for 80' to good anchors on the facing wall. Rap the route.
Standard rack to #2 camalot, small to medium TCUs and chocks, and a pink tri-cam is useful off the ground.
Fall of 2003. I found this to be a great first desert lead. In fact it was the first crack I ever climbed in the desert and the first real ( I think ) hand/finger jams i've done. Next time I'll use tape. I'm starting to understand the OW! Anyways, there's excellent protection all the way up and plenty of places to rest and fiddle with gear. Would recommend this to all first time leaders.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 5, 2003 rating: 5.9-5c17VI16HVS 4c
The crux is at the bottom and protects well on a few med/large stoppers or TCU's. Take a #3 camalot, contary to the rack advice to a #2. You can do it with nothing bigger than 1.5" but why? You can sew it up if you take a little more.
Good fun, but not a classic. 1.5 stars in my opinion.
Sucks there isn't more than one pitch. I felt the curx was the first few moves and it got easier the higher I got. TAKE A #3 Camalot, you can keep moving it up with you from about halfway until you need a number 2 (I think about 20 feet). There were other, more difficult placements, but why? My rack(from what I remember): a big stopper for the beginning, a yellow Alien for the next move group, a #3 Camalot, a #2 Camalot, 2 #1 Camalots and another yellow Alien. I think I sewed her up good, but I could be wrong. Most all placements bomber. I also remeber there may have been another stopper or two in there. Great moderate route, it seemed like there were tons of rests and stances. Fantastic roadside beer sippin', camp chair sittin', enjoy the sun and the semis route. No trucks on the weekends. Enjoy!
Two #3 Camalots are recommended to really sew it up. Of course, I only had one!
By John Wilder From: Las Vegas, NV Apr 19, 2008 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
good climb, two obvious cruxes....i managed to put the #3 in low- ran it out so far, i might as well have soloed the damn thing....
By John Maguire From: Boulder, CO Mar 27, 2009 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
Awesome climb! It helps to have either a standard rack to #3 Camelot or doubles of #2 Camelot...
By Woodson From: Park City, Ut. May 16, 2009 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
Awesome! The crux is definitely low, and is semi reachy. The rest sews up well, and agreed that it"s good to be doubled up on bigger camalots, as I placed #s 1 through 3 up higher.
By Rob Davies UK From: Cheshire, UK Oct 27, 2009 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
I hate lay-(lie-)backing and found this desperate for a 5.8. My mate also fell off the start several times, so I think it's a case of hard moves close to the ground being under-rated. UK hard 5b. Or maybe I'm just getting too old.
Rope soloed this climb on 4/2/10 and found it to be harder than Flakes of Wrath. Even on TR after I led it seemed hard for an .8. Better have your crack skills down for this one! Gear to #3 Camalot
By Rob C. From: Freeport, ME Oct 31, 2010 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
This is a great climb! The bottom crux is the most difficult. Takes good pro, it's got pretty secure stances to place from, and a #3 cam would be nice here!
By Hendo From: Denver, CO Oct 23, 2012 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
Great climb! I felt like it was made for me (175lb 6ft dude). Perfect hands almost the whole way up. There was always a good stance for placing gear as well. If you can handjam and foot jam properly, then this route is a lot of fun and not too bad. The hardest move is the start b/c it is now pretty slick (from so many attempts), that's the only part I really had to lie-back. You can figure out the other parts without lying back if you're tall enough. Wish I could have done it twice!
I found this to be harder than a 5.8. Seems more like an 5.9 or 5.10+. Maybe I'm just weak. Used Camelots .75 to #3, and a large stopper for the 1st placement, almost lost it. Apparently a lot of nuts get stuck in this obvious taper.
Lost an anchor set up on this route March 8th. Let someone clean it for me because of the long line of people waiting to get on. Went a little further up the road and lost track of them. Let me know if you see this and it was you that cleaned it for me! I would love to have that set up back!