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By Tyler King
From Salt Lake, UT
Apr 27, 2012
Touch Up
Folks,

I'm turning 30 soon and as a "I'm still young" goal (or rather just a fun challenge to mark the start of my 30's) I am going to do 30 routes in one day down in St George (redpoint). I onsight up to 11c (depending on the route) and need to keep the grades lower than that for the most part. Obviously it would be best to hit 1-3 walls with a high concentration of climbs to keep efficient. I am not super familiar with St George so from my limited experience and mp.com I came up with the idea to start on Chuckwalla Wall (11 sport routes at that grade, according to mp.com) and then to move on to Shotgun Alley (25 sport routes at that grade, according to mp.com). Apparently Shotgun Alley requires runners at the anchors. But, it sounds like it is walk-off-able and I could have a helper collect the runners for me or pull them every so often myself. Just wondering if anyone with more experience down there has any thoughts/ideas...

Tyler

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Apr 27, 2012
El Chorro
What has been your biggest day so far, in terms of pitches? For most people I know, 10 pitches is a big day. For others, that's a warm up.

If you're not in the habit if climbing 20 pitches a day (or even if you are) I'd say stick to onsighting and stay in the 9 to 11a range or even lower. Taking a second burn on a route after 6 hours of non-stop climbing doesn't sound fun to me.

You may be in much better shape than I'm giving you credit for - if not, I don't see you climbing at your onsight level AND getting in 30 pitches in a day.

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By Jhernand
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 27, 2012
Mexican Crack in LCC SLC UT
I had a friend do this just last summer for his 30th. He climbs at Smith rocks in OR, and did most of if not all of the classics and his favorite climbs there. He started at 5 or 6 in the morning, and did not finish until evening. His birthday is in June so light was not a problem.... this was just a large under taking. He climbs 13's regularly and said that this challenge was just that! a challenge! He made a shirt that on the back had 1.______ 2._____3._____ and so on.... after each route he wrote the climb on the shirt and they moved on. I do know there was one multi pitch route, a few 12's and all grades in between mixed in there. make sure your ready for this... not saying your not, but i know that he is one of the strongest climbers i know and did this at the end of a 6 month long road trip... so needless to say he spend basically 4-5 day on, and 2 days off while traveling from mexico back up to OR. i would post more about it but I think he wants to lay low.... i will say... there is a rather sweet video out there about it that just shows how hard/rewarding the whole thing is... one of the nicest guys i have ever met... and stronger climbers i have ever met... good luck to you on your challenge... safe climbing!


Shirt he made for his 30 on 30 challenge
Shirt he made for his 30 on 30 challenge

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By Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Apr 27, 2012
Me scaring years off my mom's life
mountainproject.com/v/crawdad-...

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By Kenny Clark
From State College, PA
Apr 27, 2012
I remember seeing that video. It was pretty inspiring. So inspired I thought about doing it too, but then quickly realized this guy was tough--and I wouldn't even come close. Let us know how it goes.

I haven't climbed there, but Black Rocks has a bunch of short routes you might want to look at. You would want to do this very soon as it will get very hot. You should also pick up Goss's book, which would help you generate your plan of attack.

Good luck!

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By Kenny Clark
From State College, PA
Apr 27, 2012
Oops, Black Rocks is closed until the end of June. Austin, good call on Crawdad canyon.

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By Tyler King
From Salt Lake, UT
Apr 27, 2012
Touch Up
Thanks gents, Yeah I will milk every low grade route I can and only do the 11s as needed to get my 30. Black Rocks was on my list until I saw that Tortoises were making love all over the place right now... Not sure I feel like forking out 8 bucks to climb in crawdad canyon when I can climb elsewhere for free. It's not the money, it's the principle! ;) I dig the shirt idea! Perhaps I'll steal it! My endurance isn't great right now but for the grades I'm working it'll be enough. Worst case scenario I have to look for some hand cracks to finish it out! better plan that as my contingency plan...

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By Riddler
From Centerville, UT
Apr 28, 2012
Tyler,

Saint George is a good place to do this but I suspect you'll find Chuckawalla to be pretty pumpy and sustained, so the climbing may require a bit more juice than you'll want to spend on the handful of routes there. The Green Valley Gap has a lot of short (~40 ft) routes that aren't classics but could give you the mileage you're looking for. There are also a bunch of short and generously graded routes at Woodbury Road, but you might waste too much time driving there and back if you can't get all 30 in the area. I've got the book if you want to borrow it; give me a call. When's your birthday? It's going to be HOT down there soon!

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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
Apr 28, 2012
Our less than official sponsor!
I did the 30 @ 30 challenge. I chose to do mine in Rock Canyon near Provo since there were a ton of routes within easy walking distance. I remember those last 5 routes being a beast!!! Still, one of my best days on a rope. I hit route 18 and was feeling really good. Was warmed up and climbing really strong. But suddenly, my belayer announced he had to go to the bathroom and had not brought any TP with him (despite my earlier suggestion to do so). He ended up running out of the canyon and when the BR's at the parking area ended up being locked, he had to drive to some fast food joint. By the time he got back (2 hours later!!!) I had lot the groove and felt awful for the next few routes.

Good luck!

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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Apr 28, 2012
Dow Williams, 2011
Tyler, I have climbed all the routes at that grade in St. George and did something similar at 40 up in Canmore, Alberta in Cougar Canyon. I am living in St. George now and don't mind returning the favor (with exception of Crawdad Canyon-not my scene) someone did for me back then (belay and direct if you need). Chuckawalla to Cougar to Snow Canyon (all within minutes drive of each other, no approach) would do it in nice temps really...with a shot or two of espresso in between. Need to get an early start this time of year. Woodbury (limestone and chert) up at Utah Hills will be a bit cooler and easier to control shade and just as easy if not easier than anything in St. George proper in terms of logistics (20 minutes from Ivins). Several walls all close together. Solstice has 18 just lined up, but has to be done first thing, then move to Black and Tan and Kelly's Rock for shade. Cheers

Chuckawalla
Cougar Cliffs
Snow Canyon

Woodbury
Solstice Wall

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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 28, 2012
Wow, what an amazing offer from Dow. I am in the planning phases of my 30th Birthday Challenge, but will be chasing shade in Salt Lake.

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By Tyler King
From Salt Lake, UT
Apr 29, 2012
Touch Up
Dow, thanks for the gracious offer! I have been enlisting belay slaves (using the birthday thing for leverage ya know!) I would at least like to pick your brain a bit more and if it works out would love to hook up and climb. PM sent...

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By Tyler King
From Salt Lake, UT
May 15, 2012
Touch Up
Well, I got the 30 routes! I ended up doing my first 7 at Chuckawalla and the remainder in Crawdad canyon to appease my partners... I ended up doing the majority of the climbs at approximately 5.10, followed closely by 5.9s and even got one 11b at Chuckawalla. I was later shut down by a tricky 11b at crawdad. That totally demoralized me but I somehow got it back and finished strong on some 10s.

Long story short it is totally do-able if you keep the routes in a reasonable range for your fitness level... The hardest part was maintaining the mental drive to push on and my feet were really sore even in my comfy shoes!

Thanks for the beta...

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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
May 15, 2012
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
well done! way to meet your goals! and welcome to your thirties!

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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
May 15, 2012
tanuki
Great work!

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