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30' Ground Fall on YouTube
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By Jon H
From Boulder
Apr 26, 2013
At the matching crux
Matt Wilson wrote:
Maybe he can get sponsorship from a life insurance company.



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By MojoMonkey
Apr 26, 2013
Looks like he is making his videos private - that will hamper sponsorship opportunities...

(Hi Jason!)

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By David prsn
From Tustin
Apr 26, 2013
Temple crag, dark star
This is a reply to the MP link I posted on his FB. Excuse the ghetto quoting, working from my phone

dang, hopefully people understand I realize fully how much I messed up. I may just take this video down all together. I've gotten a lot of negative feedback on it.. :/

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By Jonathan Dull
From Boone, NC
Apr 26, 2013
Upper pitches on Crescent Tower, Bugaboos.
NC Rock Climber wrote:
Now, who looked at the anchor at the end of the "aid climbing" video. OMFG, it is a disaster!


I'm still curious as to how he retrieves his gear after climbing the route and setting up botched topropes. Either he can walk around or there is a whole bunch of free booty out there!! Climbing is an expensive hobby when you have to leave gear on every route. He must be from Boulder.

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By Senior Hernandez
Apr 26, 2013
on the trip
Oh Jason, Jason, Jason, this video is a pretty good reflection of your crew's climbing competence. Maybe you should ask Marc or Ree for a Lil refresher on how to not be retarded while climbing at big choss.

Tonto out!

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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Apr 26, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
Wahhh all his videos are private now...that really will hamper sponsorship! I was just gonna ask him where to send a hundo!

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By Christiney
Apr 26, 2013
a beautiful line
Does she know how to toprope belay? Not knowing which side is the brake side is a giveaway. If not, then forget about lead belaying. Sure would be sort of safe to give her a grigri, but it's doubtful she would be able to feed rope thru it and that might lead to a groundfall when she pulls him off the route before he places any pro.

Rant aside, I do admire his courage. I don't think it's ignorance... everyone over the age of 1 has an instinct to dislike falling (which must be overcome). I still haven't gotten over it and don't climb to my limit, I always announce my falls to prepare the belayer or request takes to not get pumped.

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By Wannabe
Apr 26, 2013
1. This guy climbs harder than I do with belayers he can't even be sure will catch him. Hell, for that matter I've never soloed anything.
2. Sometimes you don't know what you don't know.
3. Its easy to sit back and criticize this guy but lying underneath this is a larger problem. The sport is growing along with the sponsorships and the hype that surrounds bold climbers. I admire what Alex Honnold can do but how many people outside the sport or new to the sport REALLY understand the backstory behind his solo's-- or any of the 30 second videos that don't explain the months of work that he and Ueli Steck et al really do?
4. If you think this is a problem what are you prepared to do to help this guy or climbers like him? Maybe all you want to be is outraged or just scoff at him but what does that accomplish?
5. Flame away in 3..2..1.. ;-)

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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
Apr 26, 2013
Our less than official sponsor!
Wannabe wrote:
I admire what Alex Honnold can do but how many people outside the sport or new to the sport REALLY understand the backstory behind his solo's-- or any of the 30 second videos that don't explain the months of work that he and Ueli Steck et al really do?


+1

I found that most often, that if they don't already climb, they usually don't fully get just how rad it is.

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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Apr 26, 2013
He even had the balls to post it on DPM too lol "DUDE i'm so rad i almost died!" oh.. people don't think i'm rad? "private"

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By Wannabe
Apr 26, 2013
David Sahalie wrote:
I would think that if he is reading this the 'scoffing' would accomplish giving him the message that what he did is stupid an he is very lucky not to have been seriously injured or died. what do you suggest?


I don't know-- maybe offer to host a "YER NOT GONNA DIE CAUSE I'LL SHOW YOU HOW NOT TO!" clinic in your area or at your crag. I think some of the clinics that are put on at the gunks after that tragic accident last year are pretty cool. Would he or people like him show-up, no idea, but it couldn't hurt could it? Probably just get you sued though right?! So reach out to the next sketchballer you see. I'm not saying it would be easy but if you're in a real position to criticize this guy that probably means you're strong enough and knowledgeable enough to help out.

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By Miike
From MA/CT border
Apr 26, 2013
my foot
sketchballers have a place in society too. I cant imagine life without a few of them really.

speaking of the Gunks having climbing classes for this reason, well, go there on a busy weekend and you'll see a sketchballer on every 4th climb or so. you'd never climb anything if you said something to all of them.

whether its the no hand ATC belay or the belayer tied to a tree 30' back from the wall when the first piece of pro is a stopper you'll see it all there.

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By CWood
From SLC, UT
Apr 26, 2013
Wannabe wrote:
3. Its easy to sit back and criticize this guy but lying underneath this is a larger problem. The sport is growing along with the sponsorships and the hype that surrounds bold climbers.
This.

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By Matt Wilson
From Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 26, 2013
There is a difference, though. Take this guy's speed solo video... ok, sure. I am sure he is aware of the risk there, and in that regard he is similar to Alex Honnald. Hope he doesn't get hurt doing it, and I hope he enjoys it. But take the originally posted video on here. He was using a safety system (a belayer) that was improperly set up (trained), and it's when you misuse safety systems that people gawk at you, because it shows ignorance and not boldness. Had this video been of a deck on an X rated climb, or a deck from a free solo, people wouldn't be gawking as much, if at all.

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By David prsn
From Tustin
Apr 26, 2013
Temple crag, dark star
Meanwhile on Facebook

m.facebook.com/#!/story.php?st...

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By Sir Wanksalot
From County Jail
Apr 26, 2013
Haters gonna hate, wankers gonna wanker, whoes gonna whoe. Every last one of us has had a dip shit moment in the mountains. I've had a few. Dude is young, strong, and trying to have fun. I'm sure he was hurting after this thing and learned from it.

Getting hurt rock climbing ISN'T COOL!

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By Kelly Murphy
Apr 26, 2013
Apparently I've joined the wrong website. I was under the impression this was a site for people to connect with other climbers to encourage and help one another or possibly to find climbing partners. I see now it's for people to hide behind their computers and belittle others. I'm ashamed to call myself a climber today.

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By David Barbour
From Denver
Apr 26, 2013
Kelly Murphy wrote:
Apparently I've joined the wrong website.


Apparently you've joined the wrong internet.

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By Ian Stewart
Apr 26, 2013
Kelly Murphy wrote:
I was under the impression this was a site for people to connect with other climbers to encourage and help one another or possibly to find climbing partners.


I'm sure the guy in the video is always looking for partners.

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By EDGE
From Boulder, CO
Apr 26, 2013
Puffin, Newfoundland, Canada
MojoMonkey wrote:
Looks like he is making his videos private - that will hamper sponsorship opportunities... (Hi Jason!)


The original vid can still be seen at DPM. dpmclimbing.com/climbing-video...

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By J Q
Apr 26, 2013
Me again!
EDGE wrote:
The original vid can still be seen at DPM. dpmclimbing.com/climbing-video...



No it's not. Effeminate men easily have their feelings hurt and this is no exception.

I would comment on the video but there is so much wrong I don't know where to start. You all are focused on that mini idiot chick, but what about cams, limestone, and running it out on a single pitch of choss! That is much more exciting.

Perhaps I should I nominate this hard-man for video of the year award. Who else has the balls to post retarded shit on the inter-webs and ask to be paid for it? Oh wait, tons of people.

So, in that case, I nominate this psycho for the Darwin award. True, he didn't kill himself, but, if he continues, he will.



Bets???

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By Eric D
From Gnarnia
Apr 26, 2013
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, h...
Wannabe wrote:
Maybe all you want to be is outraged or just scoff at him but what does that accomplish?


It provides great entertainment and lets people know that this sport has consequences. Hopefully they see these threads and realize it's time to get it together.

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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Apr 26, 2013
blah
can someone find a non private version of the vid...I am late to the flame war

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By Alex McIntyre
From Tucson, AZ
Apr 26, 2013
In the traverse section, double rainbow in the bac...
To the folks insisting she's using an ATC: look at ANY of the photos of him on the ground looking at the belayer. It is quite obvious she was using a gold Grigri 2. She has an ATC on her harness, but what she is using to belay is very clearly a Grigri.

EDIT: Looks like I'm wrong. Disregard!

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By EDGE
From Boulder, CO
Apr 26, 2013
Puffin, Newfoundland, Canada
Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:
can someone find a non private version of the vid...I am late to the flame war

Find the chossiest pile of mud-posing-as-rock as you can locate, then shake your head violently side to side for ten minutes. After about a minute and a half, throw your body into the ground, then stand up and continue. In your periphery, wave your hands like a teenager fumbling with his first bra strap in a darkened movie theater. That's a fair recreation of the vid.

Bonus points if you stop for a quick moment and look at a blond before resuming the head shaking/hand spasming.

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