|Wall of the '90s
|Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>|
EDIT: actually is named .30-06 and the right crack is Roadrunner.
This is the left crack of the two classic crack routes on the far right side of Wall of the '90s. The route is typically done in one pitch although breaking it up into two can lighten the rack if it's your first time on it (about 110' total).
Work up a few crack systems of varied sizes (.10-), with several rests to the optional pin cluster belay. Back up these pins, because they are between a few scary blocks (and they are probably 30 years old...). There used to be a webbing nest at these anchors for rapping, but I removed a couple of the loose pins awhile ago, along with the webbing and would not recommend using this anchor as a rap anchor.
EDIT: no fixed pin-tat-bail-anchor as of 8/6/08.
Traverse left underneath the big roof and fire up to the crux. (FYI, from the stance underneath the roof, you can escape left to the top anchors of Black and Tan.) The sporty crux (.12a) is protected by a few pins and then continues up the *steep* crack (.10+/.11-) thin hands, hands, fist. The pin at the crux held several of my falls, and was backed up by a bomber nut. The route ends at a two bolt rap anchor (where the three bad pins and UV-eaten sling used to be -- replaced with consent from FA). You can BARELY rap back to the ledges with a 60m, although I would suggest lowering each other.
I give this route 3 stars, because there are not many other harder, trad lines in Clear Creek, other than Brennivin and Naked Kill. I think other climbers would agree that this is the CCC of CCC ('Country Club Crack' of Clear Creek Canyon).
Set of stoppers (#6-#12), Set of Aliens, #0.5, (2)#0.75, (2)#1, #2, #3, #3.5/#4 Camalots. Several old pins scatter the route, clip them with caution. QDs, runners. 2 bolt rap anchor.
|By L. Hamilton|
Feb 24, 2003
Historical note: Steve Weaver and I aided a line on this wall (Roadrunner, I believe; possibly the FA) on July 20, 1969 -- the day Neil Armstrong first stepped on the moon. I like the "Wall of the 90's" name, which for me carries a bit of hidden humor.
|By jason seaver|
From: Estes Park, CO
May 15, 2003
I'm pretty sure the left-hand crack is Roadrunner. The roof above the slings goes at 12a and the handcrack above it is easier (although pumpy after the strenuous crux). I don't know what the rt.-hand crack is. They're the best lines on that wall though, in my worthless opinion; everything else is kinda weak and overgraded.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Apr 2, 2004
Roadrunner has a 2 bolt rap anchor instead of the 3 old pins. Much appreciated.
|By Kent Lugbill|
Apr 29, 2004
I think that the names Road Runner and 30.06 are reversed. I was with Jeff Achey (around 1980) when he free climbed what is now considered to be Roadrunner. He called it 30.06 because somebody was shooting a rifle nearby while we were climbing. Jeff lead it without trouble and called it 5.11. The crack on the right used to be called Roadrunner (now called 30.06) was climbed often in the 70s and 80s. These routes are both great regardless of what you call them.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Apr 30, 2004
Rolofson's guide calls out Roadrunner (.11d/.12a) as left crack and 30.06 (.11-) as right crack. FWIW.
|By Lon Black|
Apr 16, 2006
Lots of bird crap on this one. Also, try doing it in the shade. It felt really greasy in the sun.
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 6, 2007
And Rolofson reversed the name on the newer edition of the guide book. FWIW.
|By Casey Bernal|
From: Arvada, CO
Sep 16, 2007
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I watched someone nail up this route 9/15/07. Please do not pound pins in this route or any other established free climb.
Please practice iron-work on any of the multiple road cuts and unknown crags, or aid it cleanly.
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 6, 2008
Last night I removed the bail slings and a 3 bad pins of the 4 they were connected to. There is only one pin there now. It is solid and had a good ring sound to it. You can back it up with a bomber #8 stopper as well. It is pretty scary this rap anchor was trusted for so long. The ring pin had a crack in it and broke off with a couple hits. The knifeblade was loose and in a hollow sounding block. These pins may be almost 40 years old!
I will not replace these pins; you can get bomber gear in these spots. There does not need to be a fixed anchor at this spot anyway. The route goes well as one pitch (lower off with a 70m from bolt anchors at the top of the crack). If you want to avoid the crux and upper half of the route, you can traverse left under the roof to the Black and Tan anchors.
The protection pins on the rest of the route are still intact and can also be backed up with bomber gear.
Thanks! Hope no one minds.
Jul 27, 2010
Lots and lots and lots and lots of poop. Would it be better to climb this when the birds are gone or after a month straight of rain? Maybe. Lots of poopie. Fun route.
From: Golden, CO
Apr 12, 2011
I think the rating depends on the recent bird activity in the area. If it's poopy..., 12a or maybe harder (depends on your tolerance). If it's clean, 11+ seems totally fair. With that said, it might be best to climb this route in the early spring, since the pigeons are just coming back and it had the winter to get cleansed with snow.
|By Tyrel Fuller|
From: Denver, CO
Aug 1, 2013
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
The pin at the crux is good, I whipped all over that thing.