3 Speed on Vinyl V7-8
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BETA PHOTO: Medicine Man
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Description Stand start on the shelf and move right to an undercling the stand up to the crimp . from here get some high feet and throw up to the sidepull/jug. from he grab a small crimp and huck to the jugs above.
This is called Medicine Man in the Kemple guide and giving a rating of V3/V4 but, but this is the proper rating and name.
Location Northwest side of boulder, facing Zig-Zag Crack
Protection Pad and spotter
The line...
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undercling.
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mid big move to sidepull/jug.
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Sticking the big move, the moves after this are th...
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| Comments on 3 Speed on Vinyl |
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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 3, 2009
| Im pretty sure that one of the top out holds has broken off me and several others were looking at this today and couldnt figure the top out. anyone else notice this? |
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
May 17, 2010
| I remember working this years ago with Brett & Eman, but I don't think anything broke. They told me it was a V6 with a completely different name. |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 17, 2010
| That would make sense it seems a lot harder then V3/4.
Maybe it is a misprint in the kemple guide or there seems to be a possibility going left from the start it could be that and over time it has gotten mixed up. |
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Feb 2, 2011
| Here's the real info -
3 Speed on Vinyl V7/8
Start on the shelf and move right through the crimps to get the sidepull jug - highstep the crimps and make a big move up and left to a crimp and then topout into the jungle.
The guidebook is just wrong. When V6 was suggested it was because he had a lot of reach. Feel like updating the description, Matt? |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Feb 2, 2011
| All updated Bryce, this makes a lot more sense! |
By Taylor de Lench
Apr 7, 2011
| I climbed this a few years ago and have been calling it medicine man left v6 if this helps |
By Taylor de Lench
Apr 7, 2011
| Oh, i just saw the full forum, I'm 6'5'' so you may be right with v7/8, crimpy/reachy |
By Christian Prellwitz
Jun 14, 2012
rating: V7-8
| Just wanted to let people know that I cleaned a direct version of '3 Speed' (aka Medicine Man). I posted it up here as 'Up Into The Green Silence'. Check it out!
Also, when I did '3 Speed', I was able to statically reach for the left hand crimp by using a left heel hook. The heel hook isn't great, but it holds surprisingly well. As for the grade, v7/8 seems appropriate (compared to the other climbs at Rumney). Once you figure it out, it's pretty reasonable.
Here's the video (first problem shown):
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