This is a nice 5 bolt face/friction climb on the north side's longest face. The moves are pretty good and consistent. The guide books rate this climb 5.10c, but it felt easier than Sawdust and Peanut Shells to me after leading both.
Five good bolts with old hangers provide good protection. The fourth bolt has no hanger or nut, a small wired stopper could be used on the stud adequately. A two bolt anchor at the top with ratty slings for the belay/rappel.
Mar 21, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Not sure if I'd call these good bolts. The 2nd and 3rd hangers are Leepers, and the 4th (without a nut or hanger) has a very odd sleeve. Disappointing that the anchor would be upgraded (one good new bolt) without fixing at least the third and fifth bolts (cruxes).
|By Richard Shore|
Jan 3, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
1/4" buttonheads on this rig. Long rusty beards dripping from them, too. I thought this was harder than Sawdust and Peanut Shells, so I'll stick with the original 10c grade.