Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
3 Month Training Program
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
By Cleveland Wilson
From Villa Hills, KY
Feb 26, 2013

I have about 3 months before I head to Denver for a climbing trip. I will most likely be visiting Eldo, Lumpy and Shelf. I was wondering if anyone could help me with a training schedule? In the past I have simply just climbed to get in shape without paying too much attention to a specific training regimen. I have been reading article after article trying to come up with a plan, but it all just sounds like another language to me. I have access to a gym, home bouldering wall, rock rings, and maxipull. If you have any specific ideas on a three month training program I would love to hear them.


FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 26, 2013
Day Lily.

Its about 3 months (tailor it) and I got the climbing specific program from Eric Horst. It works amazingly well for me. Its a `meso-cycle`: 4, 3, 2, 1 in a nutshell =

4 weeks technique training (climb, climb, and keep climbing whilst being aware and putting effort into your technique. Vary the routes/features. work on weakest link). Run and do other fitness activities.

3 weeks strength (bouldering, finger board, one arm traversing, campus board, one arm lunges, et, to name but a few example workouts. Climb at least 1.5-2 hours of hard bouldering.

2 weeks of anaerobic endurance. Hard climbing but with 1-2 minute rests inbetween sets and exercises (hence the anaerobic)

1 week off! Off means off, no climbing or heavy lifting, etc. This gives your body and mind time to connect (stronger engrams/muscle memory plus rest) and recover

Then after 7 days (no more than 10) off you should be in Denver tearing it up. This is a nutshell post and you need to know specifics on the exercises to be safe. Enjoy!


FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 26, 2013
Day Lily.

To add real quick: 4 weeks = 2-4hrs per session, 1 day on, 1 off or 2 on, one off but no more than 4 days a week (watch injury, listen to your body)
3 weeks = 1.5-2hrs per session, 1 day on, 1 off
2 weeks = 1-2.5hrs per session, 1on 1 off minimum, maybe 1 on, 2 off is better so as to not get injured.

Remember warmup easy, relaxed and cool down and stretch!


FLAG
By Greg Kimble
From Colorado
Feb 27, 2013

Horst has hands down the best climbing specific training advice. Go buy 'How to climb 5.12' even if you are no where near the 5.12 grade the advice in that book is great. Check out his website for more info. www.trainingforclimbing.com/ I'm in no way associated with Horst BTW. Just followed his advice and saw huge gains. I've seen and tried a lot of different training programs and nothing worked as well as some of his stuff. I used to think I didn't need a book to tell me how to train but it was well worth the 20$. Stoned is right though, the 4-3-2-1 is great and you should look into the specifics of that program and make it work for your schedule. (it's spelled out in the 5.12 book) Warm up well, stretch, and work your antagonist muscles, too. Protect yo self!

Two things to keep in mind:

1.) Over the next 3 months when you are training make sure you don't shy away from your weaknesses. Face them now. Otherwise, you will get out here and find them on everything you want to climb. If you suck at slopers, work on slopers. If you can't crimp, work on crimps. If you pinch like a pussy, work on pinches until you are pinching like damn vice grips.

2.) Try to get some trips between now and then to climb on as many different types of rock as you can realistically manage for your area. Not sure how much granite and gneiss is out in KY but there isn't much southern sandstone out here. Rock type has a big impact on your feel while climbing. If you climb mostly on sandstone even switching it up to limestone can make a big difference. Likewise, If you are mostly indoors then get outside.

Hope you come out and crush it!


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.