Climb up the featured arete to a two bolt anchor. Cool moves, good holds, pretty vertical and so slightly pumpy.
Three quickdraws, dress the bolted anchor to taste.
From: San Francisco
Aug 24, 2009
Be careful of the flake on the arete at the bottom of the route. It is dangerously loose and about to come off. Handle this crucial route component with care.
The 20' above the flake is secure and enjoyable. Clipping the 3rd bolt is kinda heads up.
|By Floyd Hayes|
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My belayer said the flake was moving when I pulled on it. Not much can be done to avoid it unless you start off-route to the left of the arete. I will feel sorry for the last person who gets to climb the flake.
|By Tyson W.|
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 24, 2013
That flake is still hanging tough! But yes, it flexes aLOT even climbing very gingerly on it... I think it will still go if and when it does bust, there seem to be enough features around to make it possible, albeit it will probably be in the .11-.11+ range...
Jul 11, 2014
Did this in May 2014.......Flake is still very flexy but intact... for now.