So i've been messing around with the equalette some more and made this...

3-point equalette anchor Submitted By: ChaseLeoncini on Nov 21, 2012

why are you moving? don't move.

That anchor isn't so much self equalizing. Not all anchors will be, or truely need to be. Your goal is to set the anchor in the most likely direction of pull, which is easy to do with your anchor. If you need something to be able to adjust for all ranges, you have to go a different route.

IMHO, if the pieces are bomber, you are fine.

For a better solution, especially if you are swinging leads, use the rope. Here is a good video of one (of many) good solutions.

climbinglife.com/rock-anchoring-systems-videos-advanced/buil>>>

Good on you for wanting to learn about a variety of anchoring methods. There is no "perfect" anchor and different situations require different solutions. FWIW, I almost never use a coordalette in any configuration unless I am climbing in a party of 3. The coordalette works. But, in multi-pitch trad with a party of two, the rope is almost always a better solution.

Chase, I use the Equalette almost exclusively. While learning and analyzing it in my basement I made the same observation (when moving side to side one arm will go slack).

Such is the nature of this anchor.

Details are hard to see in a photo, but it appears to be correctly arranged. When using only one beener at the master point (which I also do), be sure to "magic-x" or sliding-x the two strands. Again, details are hard to spot in the photo.

This is a good resource. To directly answer your question, if one side of your anchor has no weight bearing on it while the other side is taut, then it's not really equalized. Using the rope while swapping leads pitch for pitch is my preferred method. Other than that, a simple cordelette on three pieces in the anticipated direction of pull for almost anything else.

As others have mentioned, it's good to know different methods, but as a beginning trad leader, you shouldn't find yourself relying on less than bomber pieces in your anchor that necessitate equalization.

Try with 2 biners, the sliding x may be clutching.

Awesome belay spot, I bet there is even a BBQ close by.

Thanks everyone for the advice and info. I do have the "sliding x" method in this particular photo. What ive taken out of this is if you pull 3 pieces toward your direction of pull, yes they will all equalize nearly perfectly, however moving off that direction of pull only will only make one slack, keeping two at 50% load. I guess it would be a fair conclusion to say that this set-up is usually better than the cordelette which doesnt equalize that wel especially off direction of pulll. I guess ill stick to this method and back up the piece that never slacks.
Ps: I like the rope but feel like it takes longer when not swapping leads.
PSS: There is a fat BBQ literally 8" left of where i took the photo. ha
Thanks again everyone!

I'm just trying to learn this myself so correct me if I'm wrong and sorry if this is just nitpicking. Shouldn't the girth hitch on the left sling be done the other way so it isn't pulling back across the sling and amplifying the force at that point?

Also a quick question are those two right biners just clove hitched and is that a generally solid way to connect anything to a biner?

"self-equalizing" is second priority to redundancy. You can have any number of pieces of protection, but if they are not joined independently to a knot, the system has no redundancy. Meaning: if you cut any single strand in your system, what would happen to the rest of the system? On the right side you rely on a single strand, in the case of a failure in your cordelette you would lose two pieces of protection.

My preferred method is to clip each piece into a bight of rope in the cordelette, bring all three bights together, equalizing the force on the pieces, and tie a single overhand or eight with all three bights. This creates a "masterpoint" (the three loops below the knot) and a "shelf" (the three bights above the knot) to attach into and belay off of.

I'm guessing that you already know this system as it is preferred by many guides.

Chase, you're fine. Use whatever method you like best. You don't need to back up the piece on the solitary leg.

But seriously, your biggest problem is the empty cans of Natty Ice strewn across your yard.

Only complaint I have about the Equalette is the extension if a strand breaks. Other than that, I've climbed on it and it seems quite solid. It's very nice for efficiency IMHO because you can leave it tied and have a fairly bomber anchor that's very fast between pitches. Since we trust the single rope not to break, trusting that a single strand of 6 or 7 mil not to break seems like a pretty safe bet to me.

That anchor is totally lacking in redundancy. If that beam blows you're gonna have some issues buddy!