29 Palms 5.11d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Tony Yaniro, Mike Lechlinski, Vaino Kodas and Alan Nelson, 1981 |
| Submitted By: | Vernon Stiefel on May 24, 2003 |
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Tony Yaniro on the FA of 29 Palms (5.11d), Joshua ...
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Description Difficult lieback/jam moves reach the very steep left-facing corner with a seam in the middle. Extremely technical and challenging palming and stemming moves go over a bulge to a lower angle section with a finger sized crack. Near the top the climb steepens before the anchors.
Location This climb is on the northwest face of the Arid Piles formation. Approach from the northeast end and enter the 29 Palms Corridor. Scrambling over boulders within the corridor leads to the base of the route.
Protection #00 - #3 TCU's, many small to medium brass, a few medium stoppers and one 1" cam for protection. The crux section is protected by brass. A fixed stopper is at the beginning of the crux section. Bolted anchors with rappel rings are at the top.
Attempting to decipher the sequence at the base of...
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Finally getting some fingerlocks, just past the cr...
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BETA PHOTO: View of the top of 29 Palms from the trail
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mmm...more 80's style
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29 Palms
Aaron Reed
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By Vernon Stiefel
May 26, 2003
| This climb is, hands down, the most difficult 11d I have climbed in the park to date. |
By Randy
May 29, 2003
| Vern:
Perhaps climbing this palming and smearing dihedral is a bit harder when it is so damn hot in the Park???? Not to say it isn't hard. |
By Anonymous Coward
May 30, 2003
| Hey Vern,I wouldn't want to discourage anyone from this excellent route. I actually found it easier for the grade. It's all about creative stemming and it's a great route to improve your stemming techniques. No finger strenght required.Brian Smith |
By Steven Powers
Oct 7, 2003
rating: 5.11d
| To set a top rope you will need two ropes - you can set an anchor on top of the formation then rap down to the anchors and set up the TR off of the bolted anchor. This is one of my favorite 5.11's I've done in the Park, you just gotta trust those smears, and as Randy implied not a good one to do in the middle of summer as I did. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 12, 2003
rating: 5.11d
| Location, high quality moves and good gear make this one of the classic stem routes in the Park. Four stars out of five. |
By Brad G
From: Yosemite and else where
Feb 1, 2009
| I coward away from the lead on this one. The gear in that corner just seems sooo thin. I wondered if it would even hold a fall. |
By Ben H
Nov 8, 2010
| Not stoked about the fashion in which I made my ascent. Lacked confidence in the small nuts I was placing. Including some micro nuts. Rested on some uninspiring gear a couple times. Was also really bummed when I realized I wasn't going to be able to crimp my way through this one, and had to use some real technique. Definitely some interesting/fun climbing though. |
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