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26 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 36'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Collin Wogenstahl
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 580
Submitted By: Woogie on Jul 25, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Rope marks the line.
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Short and sweet with a very distinct crux. This route will have the gym rats lining up to tick their first 12a. The first two bolts will lull you into a false sense of security. Clip the third bolt off of an adequate pocket and get ready for the freak show. After the pocket you will swear the holds have broken and the route is now impossible but have faith and look for some minuscule pimple like bumps masquerading as holds.
Hang on and dig deep to recruit every fast twitch muscle fiber you have and slap desperately to a decent edge. Two more bolts of easier climbing lead you to an oh so awkward mantle guarding the anchor.


Location 

This route is located 6 feet to the right of Rincon and 10 feet to the left of Drunken Midget.


Protection 

5 bolts to ring anchors



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By BJB
From: Austin, TX
Jul 6, 2013

The route does not have a lot to offer beyond the fact that it offers one move that feels impossible, but is actually doable once you find a way to hold onto those nasty little holds.

These are the smallest holds that I have ever used. It was a cool feeling to finally stick the crux, but that amounts to about 3 memorable moves in 30 ft.

By Chris Doobtrain
From: Sandy, Utah
Sep 8, 2013

Short route, one move wonder 12a. Very fun though!