A very fun route that looks much more intimidating than it is. A little run out at the beginning. The crux is at the very top where you pull up through a short, slightly overhung, offwidth.
This route has the same starting point as Tarzan's Arm, but instead of following the right leaning crack, you head straight up to the obvious corner. You can build an anchor directly at the top in a short vertical crack about 1' back from the edge, or, with a directional, around the corner to the right.Walk off to the right as with all other Childrens Crag climbs.
Nuts and cams to #3 Friend. a couple of 4.5 Camalots are very handy for building the anchor.
Nov 15, 2008
This route is not in the new guidebook. Mitten's Revenge is labled as 22 Minutes Till Closing in the book.
|By Ron Graham|
Mar 1, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
The beta photo suggests the route goes up the face left of the crack at which Tarzan's Arm starts. Although that face offers relatively easy climbing, it's mostly unprotectable on poor rock. Make sure you start up the big crack.
Like other routes in the area, there are some possible variations to the ending. Instead of pulling ourselves up through the shallow chimney, my partner and I traversed left on some potato chip flakes to get around the bulge forming the left side of the chimney (5.7). It appears you might also be able to use a crack and pull yourself over the right side of the shallow chimney (5.9).