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La Villa Stangiato 
New World Man 
Rush N Bravado 


YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Stuart & Bret Ruckman, 1990
Page Views: 98
Submitted By: John Steiger on Jun 22, 2012
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Right of the start of La Villa Strangiato are two bolt lines, both merging near the right end of the Stangiatoís crack. This is the right one. Climb past three bolts and on to a shelf, place gear in Stangiato, and work more or less straight up to the anchors. Enjoyable, classic BCC face climbing, albeit a bit short. The Ruckmans rated this 11a, but it didnít seem so to me.


Three draws for the bolts, and several nuts and small cams to protect the section above (use Strangiatoís crack).

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By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 15, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Disagree with your rating john. I struggled to onsight this one as every single hold is a downward sloping rail. Only till you hit the jug below bolt 3 is there any relief. It felt easier the 2nd go after you figure out which horrible rail to use, but I'd give it 11b for an onsight burn. Certainly harder than LVS!