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20th Century Flake 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: EFR,JSt,Clay Mansfield,'13
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 166
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Sep 2, 2013
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EFR on the flake

Description 

This is the preferred first pitch of Reef Break. Tricky moves in the bolted corner lead to really fun flake climbing that reminds one of Yosemite. When the flakes end there is a great finish. Go to the anchors about 15 feet up and left to make cleaning it easier. More pitches were not done due to a loose block covered in guano.


Location 

Traverse the main ledge system to Aegir crossing the gully. This route starts below a white guano stain in a shallow corner that leads to good flakes.


Protection 

Bolts and doubles from purple Camalot to Blue



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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 4, 2013

Great fun! The flake is wild and protects well. Depending on what you are climbing at the Reef this could be a good warmup. The bolted section down low is just as interesting as the flake.