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2014 Colorado Snow Climbing Thread
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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Jun 13, 2014
At the BRC
Anyone been up Bell Cord recently? Especially looking for comments on the status of the descent, either via South or North Maroon.
Thanks!

FLAG
By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Jun 13, 2014
Bocan
Mark E Dixon wrote:
Anyone been up Bell Cord recently? Especially looking for comments on the status of the descent, either via South or North Maroon. Thanks!


Stole this from the 14ers.com FB page from 6/10. There are some more recent pic of N. Maroon too I believe.


Bell Cord.
Bell Cord.

FLAG
By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Jun 13, 2014
At the BRC
Thanks Scott!
I have been following 14ers, but nothing posted in the last week or so. Will also ask there, but on MP I have a better idea who's opinion deserves consideration.
That's quite a runnel. I might take an extra tool just for that.
Kind of wondering how snowy the top out and descent are going to be, we are not going to be the strongest party for an alpine epic.

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By Brown Guy
From Lafayette, CO
Jun 13, 2014
Eric Klammer wrote:
North Face Couloirs on Pacific Peak need some more time in the oven. The snow is unconsolidated for the most part and large cornices loom overhead on the West ridge. Rock fall is a definite concern as well with many small stones coming down the couloir way too frequently. No sign of ice yet and I'm guessing it will be at least a couple weeks to a month before any shows.


Is the North Couloir any better? Any ice on it yet?

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By Ryan Marsters
Jun 13, 2014
Brown Guy wrote:
Is the North Couloir any better? Any ice on it yet?


None this morning. Firm neve past the dogleg. Just below the top out is getting there.

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By Andy Novak
From Golden, Co
Jun 13, 2014
Living the High Life.
Climbed Juliet on Neva yesterday 6/12. Still plenty of snow in the area and in/on Skywalker and North Star on Arapahoe. North Star looked particularly fat and tasty. Snow was already soft by 8 so get up early. Cornice atop Phoebe is dramatic! Road up to July is in nasty condition and driving very slowly in the pre-dawn hours is required.


W and S aspects of South Arapahoe from Neva.
W and S aspects of South Arapahoe from Neva.


Skywalker, 6/12/14.
Skywalker, 6/12/14.


Juliet.
Juliet.


Neva basin/Lake Dorothy area.
Neva basin/Lake Dorothy area.



Does anyone have any info on Longs, particularly the North Face?

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By Rocky_Mtn_High
From Arvada, CO
Jun 14, 2014
Lamb's Slide
Finally! first time all year I wasn't kicking steps: the clear skies overnight and long-wave radiation cooling set up the snowpack solidly in the Indian Peaks, and I finally got to climb on some névé on Skywalker -- even had to remind my calves what front pointing is all about for much of the upper half. Sweet!

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By Steve-Cl
Jun 15, 2014
Squamish BC on a sunny day.
Went up to Chaos Couloir in RMNP today. I think.

MP and Summit Post both refer to a rock step on the route. I did not see that. Was just West of Lake Haiyaha and looking north towards Hallet's south flank. There wasn't anything else in Chaos Canyon climbable but the canyon headwall, so I'm pretty sure I climbed Chaos Couloir, but please correct me if I'm wrong.

Chaos Couloir
Chaos Couloir


It was great neve snow. Front points the whole way and two tools in a stiffer section near the top.

On the way back to trailhead, I took Ptarmigan Snowfield to check out the Fingers. The third finger has two small cornices bookending the top of the route. The 1st and 2nd have big cornices. Here's a photo of the debris field from some cornice calving on the second. The chunk in the foreground is about the size of my minivan.

Debris field from cornice on 2nd Ptarmigan Finger.
Debris field from cornice on 2nd Ptarmigan Finger.


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By Sarah K
From Lyons, CO
Jun 16, 2014
Summit of Devils Tower.
Andy Novak wrote:
Does anyone have any info on Longs, particularly the North Face?


Yesterday, 6/15, the North Face still has quite a bit of snow, with steps in most of the way. The snow was pretty icy at around 7 am. There was some thin ice between the top eyebolt rappel and the third eyebolt.

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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2014
Bocan
That little freeze really helped out. Did some easy skiing on Sunday and threw on the microspikes. The top inch was still corn at like 1pm, but I was kicking steps up a 30ish degree slope.

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By Alton R.
From Boulder, Co
Jun 16, 2014
Center Direct, V10. Bishop, Ca.
Climbed a route on Notchtop on Saturday, June 14, 2014. Still a LOT of snow up in this range. Watched some guys climb Flattop Gully I think it was. Top of that looked a bit committing but do-able.

Couldn't see all the way up the Notchtop Couloir but it looks the snow was rotting out higher up. Lots of it down low. We brought tools/pons to be on the safe side but this could be carefully negotiated with 1 axe I presume.


Looking up at the Ptarmigan Glacier. June 14, 2014.
Looking up at the Ptarmigan Glacier. June 14, 2014.


Working our way up the Notchtop Couloir on the approach for Notchtop. June 14, 2014.
Working our way up the Notchtop Couloir on the approach for Notchtop. June 14, 2014.


Down climbing the Notchtop Couloir. June 14, 2014.
Down climbing the Notchtop Couloir. June 14, 2014.

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By Tim Zander
Jun 16, 2014
The ice pitch of Y Couloir on Ypsilon has pretty much melted out. I was there yesterday, climbed the first pitch of crappy snow and had to bail halfway up.

The runnel below it is huge right now. 10' across x 12' deep in places.

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By Mark Ra
From Mid-Atlantic/CO
Jun 16, 2014
MBC
Anyone know what kind of shape the north face of pikes is in? Any beta on quandary or fletcher snow will be appreciated as well.

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By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Jun 16, 2014
Mt. Churchill, University Range
MarktheCPA wrote:
Anyone know what kind of shape the north face of pikes is in? Any beta on quandary or fletcher snow will be appreciated as well.

There's not much snow left on Pikes and things were falling apart. Quandary and Fletcher still have a ton of snow and it looks like Wed. night we could get a good freeze!

A dieing TA.
A dieing TA.

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By John MI
From Boulder, CO
Jun 17, 2014
Water solo route at the Boneyard
Climbed and skied the northeast couloir on Mount Arkansas on Sunday (6/15). Plenty of snow coverage top to bottom.


Halfway up.
Halfway up.


Mount Arkansas.
Mount Arkansas.



Does anyone have any insight on the San Joaquin Couloir in Telluride?? I am heading there for the bluegrass festival this weekend and I am wondering if I should bring my gear..

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By Gokul
Jun 17, 2014
At the "summit"
Anyone know what kind of shape Martha is in right now?

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By nmesen
Jun 17, 2014
Martha is done (totally melted out in several spots). I was up there to do the notch last Thurs and my partner and I were surprised how bad Martha looked.

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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Jun 17, 2014
Bocan
John MI wrote:
I am heading there for the bluegrass festival this weekend and I am wondering if I should bring my gear..


haha I'll be there too...but I can tell you the most "exercise" I'll see is walking from bar to bar and maybe the falls. Last year I had big plans to hit stuff up, but you just end up watching a ton of music and hanging out.

See ya there!

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By The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
Jun 17, 2014
Harbaugh sucks
Scott McMahon wrote:
haha I'll be there too...but I can tell you the most "exercise" I'll see is walking from bar to bar and maybe the falls. Last year I had big plans to hit stuff up, but you just end up watching a ton of music and hanging out. See ya there!


Nice, it's the 40th anniversary of the festival this year, should be a lot of fun. There's no harm in hanging up the axe and crampons for a weekend of good booze and tunes

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By Ryan Marsters
Jun 18, 2014
Hit the base of shooting star on james at 11pm. Front points to mid foot snow all the way up. Some runnels and optional bergy. No snowshoes. Work is going to be fun.

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By Matt.Zia
From Leadville, CO
Jun 18, 2014
Does anyone know what condition the Bell Cord Couloir is in? I assume it's good, just hit it early in the day, but if someone's been up there it'd be nice to hear the conditions.

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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
Jun 18, 2014
14ers.com/php14ers/peakstatus_...

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By Eric Klammer
From Boulder, CO
Jun 18, 2014
Heading up the best pitches of the route. Perfect rock at a nice relaxed angle!
Matt.Zia wrote:
Does anyone know what condition the Bell Cord Couloir is in? I assume it's good, just hit it early in the day, but if someone's been up there it'd be nice to hear the conditions.


Bell Cord was in good shape as of yesterday. Super great neve/hard snow for the first half and slightly crustier but already boot packed snow for the second. A large runnel has formed but is easily avoided.

If you get an early start and move fast you can tag both summits and make it down the NW ridge of North Maroon to the easy descent couloir before it gets too soft. The descent couloir is still very snowpacked so no entry rap is needed. The NE ridge looks pretty snowy and oh so long and chossy so I would definitely recommend descending the NW ridge while it's still a relatively simple affair. Enjoy!


And I'll try to add pictures later if I get the time...

FLAG
By kirkadirka
From Boulder
Jun 19, 2014
turkey rocks
Chasm Lake area.
Chasm Lake area.


Still a little snowy up in the cirque and routes like Kieners and the Notch still look to be in mixed condition. Photo taken 6/15.

Anyone been up to the Ypsilon area yet? How would approach and descent be from Blitzen Ridge? Flotation needed?

Thanks.

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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Jun 19, 2014
At the BRC
Climbed the Savage Couloir yesterday. Direct finish starting to melt out, had to do 5-10 feet of scree scrambling. The left finishes looked worse. Mild postholing on the approach (beware the white snow...follow the brown) Still a snow bridge over the creek though, so no tricky tree traversing needed.

FLAG


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