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2014 Colorado Snow Climbing Thread
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Jun 5, 2014
Lamb's Slide
Nobleman wrote:
Hey can anyone speak to conditions on longs peak? Hoping to do Kieners soon, and would welcome any beta on the snowpack, whether any flotation is necessary, impressions on Avi danger, and the condition of lambs slide and maybe even the rock pitches. Thanks!


Ryan climbed the Notch last weekend and said it was in good shape. Alpine start required, of course. He posted some good beta photos here:
plus.google.com/photos/1036153...


Broadway 31May2014 Photo by Ryan Marsters
Broadway 31May2014
Photo by Ryan Marsters


Easily done in tennis shoes:

Broadway 31May2014 Photo by Ryan Marsters
Broadway 31May2014
Photo by Ryan Marsters
Rocky_Mtn_High
From Arvada, CO
Joined Apr 14, 2010
195 points
Jun 5, 2014
I climbed Meeker via Lambs Slide and the Loft on Tuesday, 3 June. Started up the slide at around 0830, snow was a bit soft in the sun, firmer in the shade. Enjoyed steps leading up to the Broadway turn-off. Did not notice any rock fall.
Descent from the Loft was spicy on the steep snow slope leading down to the ramp - soft snow made that the crux of my climb.
Recommend an alpine start so as to tackle any snow slopes on the east face before the sun hits it.
Board Shorts
Joined Jun 5, 2014
1 points
Jun 5, 2014
Planning on skinning/skiing Pacific Peak on Saturday; please chime in if you have been in or around the area in recent days. thanks for the input. MartinH
From Downtown Denver
Joined Apr 22, 2009
5 points
Jun 5, 2014
At the BRC
Rocky_Mtn_High wrote:
I think Taylor-B's suggestion is excellent, as those couloirs on Mt. Evans are north-facing and offer a quick approach from the lake (which can be reached by car).


Yes, a great idea. Looks like the Snave is fairly sun sheltered?
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Jun 5, 2014
Standin' on top of the world.  NEWS, WA Pass.
Mark E Dixon wrote:
Yes, a great idea. Looks like the Snave is fairly sun sheltered?


It sure is.
eric kramak
From Denver, Colorado
Joined May 20, 2011
46 points
Jun 6, 2014
Long's Peak and the Boulder Field
I'm looking to climb Queens Way on Apache in the Indian Peaks sometime this month, two questions:

-Does anyone know what the conditions on Queens Way route are like? Should I bring a beacon?
-(Unrelated to this peak, but I'm still curious) Is Fourth of July road passable to the Trailhead?

Thanks!
TheYooper
Joined Jun 6, 2014
5 points
Jun 6, 2014
Bocan
TheYooper wrote:
I'm looking to climb Queens Way on Apache in the Indian Peaks sometime this month, two questions: -Does anyone know what the conditions on Queens Way route are like? Should I bring a beacon? -(Unrelated to this peak, but I'm still curious) Is Fourth of July road passable to the Trailhead? Thanks!


Queens way is via brainard lake man, unles you plan to come from a different direction. You take the lake isabelle trailhead. Road might be closed, but you can park at the main gait and bike in. Road should be clear and open soon though if not already (site doesn't show current conditions). 4th of July is S. Arapaho area.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Jun 6, 2014
Via Kendrick Callaway's and David Ponak's pics: Queens way sounds like the usual snow conditions - wet slide debris down low but good to go. Slight runnels and lots of dust. Hit it early. Bootpacked trail or iso snow for the approach, no snowshoes used (trailrunners). The ranger says the road likely won't open until the 13th.

4th is open. Daily train up Skywalker.
Ryan Marsters
Joined Jan 21, 2011
104 points
 
Jun 6, 2014
Long's Peak and the Boulder Field
Scott McMahon wrote:
Queens way is via brainard lake man, unles you plan to come from a different direction. You take the lake isabelle trailhead. Road might be closed, but you can park at the main gait and bike in. Road should be clear and open soon though if not already (site doesn't show current conditions). 4th of July is S. Arapaho area.


Hey Scott, that second question was unrelated to my Apache question, as noted. I'm familiar with the approach from Brainard. I've got multiple irons in the fire at this point. Still, any advice is appreciated.
TheYooper
Joined Jun 6, 2014
5 points
Jun 6, 2014
Long's Peak and the Boulder Field
Ryan Marsters wrote:
Via Kendrick Callaway's and David Ponak's pics: Queens way sounds like the usual snow conditions - wet slide debris down low but good to go. Slight runnels and lots of dust. Hit it early. Bootpacked trail or iso snow for the approach, no snowshoes used (trailrunners). The ranger says the road likely won't open until the 13th. 4th is open. Daily train up Skywalker.


Thanks for the advice Ryan! How does Juliet on Neva look?
TheYooper
Joined Jun 6, 2014
5 points
Jun 6, 2014
Bocan
TheYooper wrote:
Hey Scott, that second question was unrelated to my Apache question, as noted. I'm familiar with the approach from Brainard. I've got multiple irons in the fire at this point. Still, any advice is appreciated.


Sorry.. Well sping skiing is always a personal preferance with a beacon. I "usually" don't but this year is complete soup. There are wet avies anytime of day due to high nightime temps. You'd probably be fine, but honestly this is the first year I've been wearing my beacon this late in the year. Shit is coming down all over the place. If you pick a year to wear one this might be it, however I doubt its enough for a burial. Enough to be hurt but not enough to be buried. All the slide paths I've been crossing are no more than knee deep.

Not a full answer, but the roads are open. Hessie was clear all the way up a few weeks back so I'm sure the 4th is clear too.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Jun 8, 2014
Standin' on top of the world.  NEWS, WA Pass.
Climbed Canary Couloir on the north side of Mt Quandary this morning. Looks like it could be a fun climb in the right conditions. Snow was in good shape but the cruxes were completely melted out - bit of a chossy horror show. I would avoid the couloir until the it starts snowing again.
Quandary, east of the North Gully/Quandary Couloir...
Quandary, east of the North Gully/Quandary Couloir. Canary is hidden in the dead center.


Technical choss-eneering
Technical choss-eneering





The exit pitch of Canary.  Currently gross.
The exit pitch of Canary. Currently gross.
eric kramak
From Denver, Colorado
Joined May 20, 2011
46 points
Jun 8, 2014
Mountain Bandito
eric kramak wrote:
Climbed Canary Couloir on the north side of Mt Quandary this morning. Looks like it could be a fun climb in the right conditions. Snow was in good shape but the cruxes were completely melted out - bit of a chossy horror show. I would avoid the couloir until the it starts snowing again.

That's cool that you checked out that adventure and keep the booty-gear for your next excursion! I don't think you where too far off for good mixed conditions. Here is a photo from last May (2013 bad snow year) with the Canary in prime mixed shape, there is also a potential mixed runnel between the two prominent couloirs that constantly comes in to condition and it "looks good from the bottom."

Quandary North Face, May 2013.
Quandary North Face, May 2013.
Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Joined Oct 20, 2009
2,469 points
Jun 8, 2014
Queen's Way, Isabelle, etc. If anybody has Fri off, would love to do Dreamweaver, Pacific N couly, Kiener's, or similar (harder if you don't mind leading)



Full area pics
Ryan Marsters
Joined Jan 21, 2011
104 points
Jun 9, 2014
Lamb's Slide
CMC HAMS (High Altitude Mountaineering School) grads reported excellent snow conditions on a variety of couloirs this weekend, incl. Superstar, Shooting Star, Dreamweaver (now featuring ice on the steps!), and Savage.


The striking Savage Couloir, 08June2014.
The striking Savage Couloir, 08June2014.
Rocky_Mtn_High
From Arvada, CO
Joined Apr 14, 2010
195 points
Jun 9, 2014
Lincoln Falls
Conundrum couloir was in excellent shape for climbing/skiing this weekend.
Also, looking for conditions update/pix on Pacific/Atlantic couloirs for the upcoming weekend (Ryan, can't go on Friday, but will be game Sat/Sun)
Conundrum from Castle
Conundrum from Castle


Conundrum couloir cornice
Conundrum couloir cornice


in the couloir
in the couloir
YPNat
Joined Dec 29, 2011
75 points
 
Jun 9, 2014
Dreamweaver was in great shape yesterday (8th June). Solid styrofoam snow, fat ice in the steps (one was all dry rock). Looking at it from the junction it looks pretty thin but it's in! Not sure how long that ice will last though if we get more sunny days. Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
Joined Sep 23, 2008
63 points
Jun 9, 2014
Long's Peak and the Boulder Field
Conditions for Queens Way on Apache? TheYooper
Joined Jun 6, 2014
5 points
Jun 9, 2014
Long's Peak and the Boulder Field
Scott McMahon wrote:
Sorry.. Well sping skiing is always a personal preferance with a beacon. I "usually" don't but this year is complete soup. There are wet avies anytime of day due to high nightime temps. You'd probably be fine, but honestly this is the first year I've been wearing my beacon this late in the year. Shit is coming down all over the place. If you pick a year to wear one this might be it, however I doubt its enough for a burial. Enough to be hurt but not enough to be buried. All the slide paths I've been crossing are no more than knee deep. Not a full answer, but the roads are open. Hessie was clear all the way up a few weeks back so I'm sure the 4th is clear too.


FoJ Road was as good as it gets - snow was stable and pretty much perfect on the backside of S. Arapahoe, although Skywalker had a runnel and recent pont-release avi scars.
TheYooper
Joined Jun 6, 2014
5 points
Jun 10, 2014
another day in the park
Nokhu Crags in the Never Summers were in fine shape yesterday. Approach still requires some snowshoes. A number of routes in good condition, and a few snow mushrooms and cornices to keep an eye on. Only saw a few wet slides, but mostly on the east facing aspects. North aspects were not shedding much.
Nokhu Crags 6/9/14
Nokhu Crags 6/9/14
Andy Nelson
From Fort Collins, Colorado
Joined Feb 6, 2013
317 points
Jun 10, 2014
Mountain Bandito
Does any one have a recent picture of Dark Star on Mt. Meeker? Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Joined Oct 20, 2009
2,469 points
Jun 10, 2014
Taylor-B. wrote:
Does any one have a recent picture of Dark Star on Mt. Meeker?


I took this photo on Sunday from the loft... I've never done the route but it looked "in".

Dark Star 6-8-14
Dark Star 6-8-14
MyFeetHurt
From Thornton, CO
Joined Oct 31, 2011
40 points
Jun 10, 2014
Base of the Black Wall pitch on the Direct Exum
Taylor-B. wrote:
Does any one have a recent picture of Dark Star on Mt. Meeker?


Meeker from Chasm Juntion 6/7
Meeker from Chasm Juntion 6/7


Looked in but thin from the hike down the Loft from the top of Dutchman.
Ted Eliason
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jun 16, 2009
548 points
Jun 11, 2014
At the BRC
Did the Snave today, really fun. Mostly snow, a little ice in spots, a little more rock than ice.
Mt Evans, 6/11/14.
Mt Evans, 6/11/14.
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
 
Jun 12, 2014
The Northeast Couloir on Mt. Arkansas was in exceptional shape on Tuesday. The crux is completely filled in and the cornice is easily passable on climbers left. Such a fun climb with a short approach! Go check it out!

Mt. Arkansas NE Couloir.
Mt. Arkansas NE Couloir.


Entering the NE Couloir.
Entering the NE Couloir.


First turns! Yeehaw!
First turns! Yeehaw!
Clayton James
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined May 23, 2011
32 points


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