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2013-14 Tahoe ice conditions
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By climbing coastie
From Sacramento
Dec 9, 2013
Switzerland

Planned on checking out Eagle Creek Canyon yesterday, but didn't realize 89 was closed. Ended up just going to Cascade Falls.

Ice wasn't thick but very little open water. There were three groups with three sets of top ropes. Pretty low angle but it's there.


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By Anouk Erni
Dec 10, 2013

We are planning on heading up there for New Years and am hoping to get some beta on the ice conditions in the North Tahoe area. Thanks ahead of time:)


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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 12, 2013

Few thoughts as of 12-12-13, based upon two recon hikes this week on the south shore and from talking with a few other devoted Tahoe ice seekers....

Lots of snow on the ground right now and not a lot of exposed ice where there actually is ice.
The seasonally unplowed roads are for the most part gated off or unplowed, so some of the earlier available ice spots are offering less accessibility now since the storm last weekend. However, 89 is open.

The "indicator" flows that I usually use to determine how things are at crags that require more of a hike aren't showing a whole lot. It's been cold for sure, but there doesn't appear to have been a whole lot of melting going on. The snow is holding up surprisingly well on all aspects except for the sunniest south facing ones.

The ski resorts are getting more terrain open and the groomers are reportedly in excellent shape. With the holiday crush soon upon Tahoe, and many people having been here last weekend to ski the new snow, if you're looking to get some turns in, now might be a good time.


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By tom mahr
From s. lake
Dec 13, 2013
just playing

Just to let everybody know, the gate is closed and padlocked at the beginning of the road going up to voodoo. It was open just last week. Going to check on sunnyside tomorrow.


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By Andy C
Dec 18, 2013
Mt Baker above Roman Wall

Hi

New to the Nor Cal

Looking for some easy access ice to teach my teenagers how to climb

Short routes or Low angle is fine

Any suggestion about location in Tahoe that might be in over the Christmas break

Thanks in advance
AC


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By SRG
From San Francisco, CA
Dec 19, 2013
Scouting

It's looking grim right now. The water falls were frozen up from the last cold snap but now that it is warmed up they appear to be melting. Standing at the base of Eagle falls was like taking a shower along with large chunks of ice randomly falling off all over the place. I checked several places that are dependent upon the melt/freeze cycle to come in and they are all bone dry. The one place I can't comment on is Cold Stream Canyon. Didn't go there. With this warm weather I would guess that it is pretty wet though.


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By tom mahr
From s. lake
Dec 19, 2013
just playing

Hey Andy cascade is a good place to take them. Not bad approach and you can lower then down and belay of a tree.


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By Andy C
Dec 22, 2013
Mt Baker above Roman Wall

Thanks Tom

Is Cascade falls reliable? SRG makes it sound like things are melting out since last weeks freeze

I looked and the weather and it is well below freezing at night


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By climbing coastie
From Sacramento
Dec 23, 2013
Switzerland

Went up to Coldstream again yesterday. Judging by the degradation of ice from last weekend to this weekend and looking at forecasted temps, my guess is it will be done for lead climbing by the weekend. Could be ok for TR depending on how bad it gets.

Hoping for colder temps!


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By SRG
From San Francisco, CA
Dec 24, 2013
Scouting

If u guys hit LV can you post some pics.
Inquiring minds want to know....


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By SirTobyThe3rd
Dec 24, 2013
Hello

Saw recent pics on friend's facebook. Right side of Chouinard is in. Left side is a bit thin but climbable. Middle line on Main wall is very thin at the bottom but middle and top parts are formed.


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By tucker cunningham
From Truckee, CA
Jan 18, 2014

Cold stream yesterday. You can get up the "main" flow on solid ice on the far left.

Cold stream ice, Jan 15, 2014
Cold stream ice, Jan 15, 2014


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By Josh Hutch
Jan 19, 2014
2nd pitch of Chockstone Gulley, Skylight Area, Ouray CO

tucker cunningham wrote:
Cold stream yesterday. You can get up the "main" flow on solid ice on the far left.


Thanks a lot for the update! How did the far left flow look? Think it would take screws?


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By tucker cunningham
From Truckee, CA
Jan 20, 2014

Left flow in the photo is good to go, will take screws the whole way. The far left on the wall, out of view in tthe photo, is not in. Or at least its Mhard


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By Josh Hutch
Jan 20, 2014
2nd pitch of Chockstone Gulley, Skylight Area, Ouray CO

tucker cunningham wrote:
Left flow in the photo is good to go, will take screws the whole way. The far left on the wall, out of view in tthe photo, is not in. Or at least its Mhard


Thanks!


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By ahh
From Bay Area
Jan 22, 2014

Sunny Falls as of two weeks ago
Sunny Falls as of two weeks ago


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By Josh Hutch
Jan 22, 2014
2nd pitch of Chockstone Gulley, Skylight Area, Ouray CO

ahh wrote:


Thanks for the update. How did the flows look on the south side of eagle creek canyon (if any)? I know they are all formed from snow melt but one can always hope.


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By ahh
From Bay Area
Jan 22, 2014

Josh Hutch wrote:
Thanks for the update. How did the flows look on the south side of eagle creek canyon (if any)? I know they are all formed from snow melt but one can always hope.


I don't remember seeing anything. Bad snow year...


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By climbing coastie
From Sacramento
Jan 23, 2014
Switzerland

Anyone have an update on Cascade or Sunny Falls with the warm weather we've had?


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By tallmark515
From San Francisco
Jan 23, 2014
Red Zinger - Red Rocks

Was at Cascade Falls on 1/18. Leftmost part was thick, solid and climbed great. Right side had thin parts with visible running behind, but no punctures. Nothing harder than WI2.

Where is Sunny Falls?


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By SirTobyThe3rd
Jan 23, 2014
Hello

sunny falls is up Eagle Creek. With recent temps I would think they fell apart in the last 2 weeks. They get direct sun and tend to melt fast when it is warm.


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By climbing coastie
From Sacramento
Jan 24, 2014
Switzerland

Thanks for the updates!


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By Erik W
From Bay Area, CA
Jan 24, 2014
North face of Ama Dablam - taken on approach to Kongma La.

Not a condition report.

I recently moved to the SF Peninsula from Colorado and didn't even know there was ice within reasonable driving distance. Anybody from the Bay interested in a parter for some Tahoe ice? I'm a super solid belayer, lead up to WI4 and M5 trad (M6/7 bolted), and have a full rack of screws/pins/etc.

Send a DM or email to eXYZrikw.hubATgmail take out xyz and replace AT


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By climbing coastie
From Sacramento
Jan 24, 2014
Switzerland

Erik,

I'd take a look/post in the "looking for an ice partner" about six topics below. There's a link to a spread sheet of contact info for Nor Cal ice climbers.

I'm not in the bay area, but let me know if you want to get out.

Pat


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By Rudy Gustafson
Jan 28, 2014

Anyone out there over the weekend? Has this warm weather been a blessing or a curse?


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By climbing coastie
From Sacramento
Feb 2, 2014
Switzerland

Climbed at Sunny Falls yesterday. Right side was hollow but thick the whole way up. Everything else was mixed. If the temps stay cold next weekend it should be better.

Another two feet of snow would make the approach much easier!


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