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2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread
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Feb 10, 2012
Are you talking about the one right behind the house in Spring Canyon? That has been called Spring Canyon Falls for many years.

As for the one in your photo it is .7 miles up Timber canyon. There was a new brown sling and Omega Rap ring on a pine to the right just 15 feet above the topout. I was there Saturday and again on Wednesday.
Nathan Smith
From Salt Lake City
Joined Jun 26, 2006
19 points
Feb 10, 2012
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12
Ahhh OK. Thanks Nathan. Thomas was the one directing the trip and told us the one behind the house was Excalibur. Thanks for the info. You should get in contact with Thomas to help him get his tool back.
Either way the one behind the house, spring canyon falls, is also a very nice piece of ice also. Do you know how to get in contact with the land owner of spring canyon or how one goes about getting permission to climb?
Mooner
From Bountiful, UT
Joined Feb 9, 2012
277 points
Feb 10, 2012
hardcore bouldering
When we were up there, we didn't see any evidence of a rap anchor, but there were relatively fresh boot tracks heading up to the base of the climb. We rapped off of a tree immediately above the left side of the pillar.

Jacob: I was just confused as to the north/south directions given on MP, so I clearly flipped the description of the two pieces of ice. My bad. Isn't it cool knowing the name of it now?

It's in good. Anyone wanna head up there with me tomorrow to get my tool? I'll pay gas.

Thomas
Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Joined Feb 18, 2010
105 points
Feb 10, 2012
Thomas Gappmayer wrote:
Alternatively, if you wanted to go up there on your own and get it for me, I'd definitely get you a beer. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks, Thomas


Sorry in advance, but I can't help myself but think that your reward is too small. A tool = $200+. A can of PBR = $0.80. But no worries; I have no plan to go up there anytime soon. If you want to get up there yourself to get your tool back, you are welcome to borrow my tools.

Shiho
Shiho
Joined Dec 26, 2010
121 points
Feb 10, 2012
hardcore bouldering
Shiho,

Most of the time, people go climb because it's rewarding in and of itself--the thought of free gas + dinner/whatever would certainly motivate me to go climb, since 99% of the time, neither of those two perks are included.

If no one wants to go, I guess I'll just have to buck down and get 'em myself. I've got another set of tools, just not sure I have the balls to lead that thing.
Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Joined Feb 18, 2010
105 points
Feb 10, 2012
Thomas,

I didn't know that there's free dinner involved in this rescue mission... I didn't meant to upset/provoke you. I'm sorry if I offended you in any means. All I was trying to say was that if the reward was so small, whoever rescued the tool may turn around and sell it on ebay for good chunk of money... I know that there are a lot of good people in UT, though, and I'm sure they'd gladly return your tool for free. I was just trying to help. For instance, when I 'rescued' a #6 Camalot, I got a nice bottle of whiskey.

Shiho
Shiho
Joined Dec 26, 2010
121 points
Feb 10, 2012
Chuck Norris can Divide by Zero
Nathan Smith wrote:
Are you talking about the one right behind the house in Spring Canyon? That has been called Spring Canyon Falls for many years. As for the one in your photo it is .7 miles up Timber canyon. There was a new red sling and Omega Rap ring on a pine to the right just 15 feet above the topout. I was there Saturday and again on Wednesday.


Nate, just so you don't have your notes mixed up from that day.

We left a brown sling with OP ring on Excalibur up and right on a conifer. We left red slings and OP ring up and left on Simmons canyon.

PT
paintrain
Joined Jan 22, 2007
86 points
Feb 10, 2012
hardcore bouldering
shiho wrote:
For instance, when I 'rescued' a #6 Camalot, I got a nice bottle of whiskey.



To be clear, I'd give the finder of that tool a bottle of whiskey, or a #6 camalot, or both, or whatever. Something worthy of the effort. I just meant dinner/beer as a turn of phrase, ie, a token of appreciation.
Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Joined Feb 18, 2010
105 points
Feb 10, 2012
Mooner wrote:
The land owner ( or at least his neibors) seems very protective of it The picture above is something we found and I do not know the name of it and have yet to find any previous info on. it. It a lso is not located on private land.


hahaha, consider yourself lucky!

the same year (97/98) we started poachin' ice in strawberry canyon happened to be the same year when the infamous strawberry canyon rancher, John Pinder, committed brutal double homicide of two hired ranch hands who apparently were shot, blown up, run over, tilled under, partially fed to his african lion, and partially thrown into the river for the purported reason of petty theft. news.google.com/newspapers?nid...

and to think, some of the ice we poached that season, occured on his land, in plain sight.

a quick look at the Duchesne County parcel geodatabase available on the Utah Automated Geographic Information Center server, gis.utah.gov/sgid ,shows that most of the ice and/or access to the ice are located on private and indian land. track down the geodb file and you'll get names and possibly digits of the land owners, that is if your wanting to gain access the right way.

and yes, your photo of Excalibur (Timber Canyon) is unfortunately located on the edge of private land.
bay
Joined Apr 9, 2007
22 points
Feb 10, 2012
hardcore bouldering
bay wrote:
hahaha, consider yourself lucky! the same year (97/98) we started poachin' ice in strawberry canyon happened to be the same year when the infamous strawberry canyon rancher, John Pinder, committed brutal double homicide of two hired ranch hands who apparently were shot, blown up, run over, tilled under, partially fed to his african lion, and partially thrown into the river for the purported reason of petty theft.


This makes me feel so much better about yesterday. Things really, really could've gone a lot worse for us.
Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Joined Feb 18, 2010
105 points
Feb 10, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Wow...the things you learn in an ice conditions thread...

romingerlegal.com/utah/opinion...

Objective hazards? Yikes!
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
10,997 points
Feb 10, 2012
Last Chance Falls in the Right Fork of Logan Canyon is still fat. Not sure if it is really worth the drive from Salt Lake, but if you live closer, it is a fun line. Too bad there is not much else in the area. Nathan Smith
From Salt Lake City
Joined Jun 26, 2006
19 points
Feb 10, 2012
Are the Falls up Providence Canyon in at all? Wyatt H
From Casper, Wy
Joined Oct 29, 2010
19 points
Feb 11, 2012
hardcore bouldering
These guys are besties.
These guys are besties.



Back together again at last. Everything up Strawberry is still in fat, but SUPER WET (as in, my waterproof shell and Alpine Alibi's got soaked, along with the rest of me)on Exaclibur. Fun times.
Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Joined Feb 18, 2010
105 points
Feb 12, 2012
Leading Blue Collar Crack.
Anyone interested in getting out this week for some laps on something? I'm free on tuesday and thursday. Pretty flexible with scheduling/locations.

gafoto@gmail.com or shoot me a text at 5402047951
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Feb 9, 2012
1,274 points
Feb 14, 2012
bay wrote:
and yes, your photo of Excalibur (Timber Canyon) is unfortunately located on the edge of private land.


okay ice-sportfans, upon further review, Excalibur is located on State-owned land.
bay
Joined Apr 9, 2007
22 points
Feb 16, 2012
P3 on the Nutcracker.
Any news on how the conditions look like in Santaquin Canyon?

We did both pitches of Bridal Veil Right today. The ice was pretty hollow and thin in quite a few sections (plus there was lots of snow).
Josh Allred
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Mar 10, 2011
135 points
Feb 16, 2012
Hummm...
bay wrote:
okay ice-sportfans, upon further review, Excalibur is located on State-owned land.


Glad to here that...
RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Joined Dec 5, 2011
262 points
Feb 16, 2012
A route I established at The Overlook called, Phot...
I keep getting asked about Maple ice Conditions. Here's a link to Mountainworks facebook page with pictures from yesterday.

facebook.com/pages/Mountainwor...

Still not good enough, IMO.
Darren Knezek
Joined Jan 20, 2006
860 points
Feb 17, 2012
Me in the 70's
Josh Allred wrote:
Any news on how the conditions look like in Santaquin Canyon? We did both pitches of Bridal Veil Right today. The ice was pretty hollow and thin in quite a few sections (plus there was lots of snow).


Conditions in Santaquin are excellent. ACT and Candlestick are in thick. ACT is as big as I've seen it in years.
bsmoot
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,862 points
Feb 19, 2012
Leading Blue Collar Crack.
bsmoot wrote:
Conditions in Santaquin are excellent. ACT and Candlestick are in thick. ACT is as big as I've seen it in years.

So are they less steep than the pictures I'm seeing elsewhere of years past?

Also, is anyone interested in getting out on tuesday? My work schedule gives me the most difficult days off to find partners. Phone: 540-204-7951. Email: gafoto@gmail.com
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Feb 9, 2012
1,274 points
Feb 21, 2012
Me in the 70's
Garret Nuzzo-Jones wrote:
So are they less steep than the pictures I'm seeing elsewhere of years past?


Not much difference in steepness...it's still Santaquin.

2/25 Update: The left side of the 2nd pitch pillar is a bit less than vertical. Get it while you can.
bsmoot
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,862 points
Feb 22, 2012
Near Mt. Challenger, Picket range.
A buddy and I decided to try something a little different this week so we toured up Mineral Fork to check out Mineral Fork Falls. Its a bout 2 and 1/2 miles up canyon on the east side. We didn't end up climbing anything because we weren't super comfortable with avy conditions. There are some larger slopes above and we watched some spindrift come down the upper falls. The ice looked like it was in good shape though if anyone is looking for a little adventure once the snow settles a bit.

The two upper falls from the approach
The two upper falls from the approach


The lower falls. Ice seemed really solid.
The lower falls. Ice seemed really solid.


A crack that splits 1/3 of the pillar. Upon closer...
A crack that splits 1/3 of the pillar. Upon closer inspection, it looked pretty mended.


The main upper falls.
The main upper falls.
Trever W.
Joined Nov 17, 2009
62 points
Feb 23, 2012
P3 on the Nutcracker.
Where is Mineral Falls? That looks awesome. Rating? Josh Allred
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Mar 10, 2011
135 points
Feb 23, 2012
Chuck Norris can Divide by Zero
mountainproject.com/v/mineral-...

It looks like its in good shape. Pack the skis.

pT
paintrain
Joined Jan 22, 2007
86 points


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