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2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread



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By Eric and Lucie
From Boulder, CO
Feb 8, 2012

Does anyone have recent info about ice conditions around Provo? Pics would be even better! Thanks!


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By akafaultline
Feb 8, 2012

Climbed provo today-Bridal veil right is in to the top. Good conditions and dry.


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By Harry Richardson
Feb 9, 2012

Provo Canyon...Bolted small mixed line between Bridal Veil Left and Bridal Veil Right...4 bolts...M4-M5 depending on conditions...new chains 5' to the left of Bridal Veil Right chains...route name = B.V.M.


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By Rob Man
From SLC UT
Feb 9, 2012
mountain sunset

Me and my friend Dan top roped that climb last week and we thought it might be worth bolting, congratulating


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By Thomas G.
From Provo, Utah
Feb 9, 2012
hardcore bouldering

Hey guys!

So after reading (and laughing at) a bunch of MP posts about lost tools, I finally managed to lose one of my own. I guess it's not lost--I mean, I know the exact WI5 pillar that it's on top of--there's just no way in hell that I'll be able to lead up it.

So, just wanted to see if anyone was interested in going on a trip. I'll pay for gas, all you have to do is get up a super sweet line that almost never gets climbed. It's in the Strawberry Pinnacles.

Alternatively, if you wanted to go up there on your own and get it for me, I'd definitely get you a beer.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks,

Thomas


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By Mooner
From Bountiful, UT
Feb 10, 2012
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12

Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12
Submitted By: Mooner on Feb 10, 2012

Drool all you want. This is what Thomas, Dan and I found in Strawberry Pinnacles today 2/09/12. Is this motivation enough to get in touch with Thomas, to go help him get his tool back?


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 10, 2012
Lead climbing.

Went down to Joe's Valley today and climbed CCC Falls and the Donorcicle. Both are in fantastic shape, with just the far thin right curtain of the upper pitch of CCC Falls having dropped off. Saw the Pricecicle on the way down and it is pretty monstrous. Filthy looking but very large.

CCC Falls was fun but the real meat was on the Donorcicle:

Donorcicle on 2/9/12
Donorcicle on 2/9/12
Submitted By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones on Feb 10, 2012


My climbing partner hiked around to the top and set up a TR. Very doable with the 60M rope. We did laps on the center and left side but it looks climbable all over. The ice is weirdly formed so it would be a real challenge to lead. Fun climbing though.


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By Nathan Smith
From Salt Lake City
Feb 10, 2012

"Drool all you want. This is what Thomas, Dan and I found in Strawberry Pinnacles today 2/09/12."

The climb in Mooner's photo is Excalibur WI5. Super fun pillar.


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By Mooner
From Bountiful, UT
Feb 10, 2012
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12

In reality Nathan it is not Excalibur. We did go to Excalibur but were chased off the land by some guy with a camera saying he was going to call the sheriff for trespassing. For the record we didn't have our ice gear with us and went and knocked on the land owners door first then went back to look at it. So the moral of the story is call before attempting Excalibur. The land owner ( or at least his neibors) seems very protective of it
The picture above is something we found and I do not know the name of it and have yet to find any previous info on. it. It a lso is not located on private land.


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By Nathan Smith
From Salt Lake City
Feb 10, 2012

Are you talking about the one right behind the house in Spring Canyon? That has been called Spring Canyon Falls for many years.

As for the one in your photo it is .7 miles up Timber canyon. There was a new brown sling and Omega Rap ring on a pine to the right just 15 feet above the topout. I was there Saturday and again on Wednesday.


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By Mooner
From Bountiful, UT
Feb 10, 2012
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12

Ahhh OK. Thanks Nathan. Thomas was the one directing the trip and told us the one behind the house was Excalibur. Thanks for the info. You should get in contact with Thomas to help him get his tool back.
Either way the one behind the house, spring canyon falls, is also a very nice piece of ice also. Do you know how to get in contact with the land owner of spring canyon or how one goes about getting permission to climb?


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By Thomas G.
From Provo, Utah
Feb 10, 2012
hardcore bouldering

When we were up there, we didn't see any evidence of a rap anchor, but there were relatively fresh boot tracks heading up to the base of the climb. We rapped off of a tree immediately above the left side of the pillar.

Jacob: I was just confused as to the north/south directions given on MP, so I clearly flipped the description of the two pieces of ice. My bad. Isn't it cool knowing the name of it now?

It's in good. Anyone wanna head up there with me tomorrow to get my tool? I'll pay gas.

Thomas


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By Shiho
Feb 10, 2012

Thomas Gappmayer wrote:
Alternatively, if you wanted to go up there on your own and get it for me, I'd definitely get you a beer. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks, Thomas


Sorry in advance, but I can't help myself but think that your reward is too small. A tool = $200+. A can of PBR = $0.80. But no worries; I have no plan to go up there anytime soon. If you want to get up there yourself to get your tool back, you are welcome to borrow my tools.

Shiho


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By Thomas G.
From Provo, Utah
Feb 10, 2012
hardcore bouldering

Shiho,

Most of the time, people go climb because it's rewarding in and of itself--the thought of free gas + dinner/whatever would certainly motivate me to go climb, since 99% of the time, neither of those two perks are included.

If no one wants to go, I guess I'll just have to buck down and get 'em myself. I've got another set of tools, just not sure I have the balls to lead that thing.


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By Shiho
Feb 10, 2012

Thomas,

I didn't know that there's free dinner involved in this rescue mission... I didn't meant to upset/provoke you. I'm sorry if I offended you in any means. All I was trying to say was that if the reward was so small, whoever rescued the tool may turn around and sell it on ebay for good chunk of money... I know that there are a lot of good people in UT, though, and I'm sure they'd gladly return your tool for free. I was just trying to help. For instance, when I 'rescued' a #6 Camalot, I got a nice bottle of whiskey.

Shiho


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By paintrain
Feb 10, 2012
Chuck Norris can Divide by Zero

Nathan Smith wrote:
Are you talking about the one right behind the house in Spring Canyon? That has been called Spring Canyon Falls for many years. As for the one in your photo it is .7 miles up Timber canyon. There was a new red sling and Omega Rap ring on a pine to the right just 15 feet above the topout. I was there Saturday and again on Wednesday.


Nate, just so you don't have your notes mixed up from that day.

We left a brown sling with OP ring on Excalibur up and right on a conifer. We left red slings and OP ring up and left on Simmons canyon.

PT


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By Thomas G.
From Provo, Utah
Feb 10, 2012
hardcore bouldering

shiho wrote:
For instance, when I 'rescued' a #6 Camalot, I got a nice bottle of whiskey.



To be clear, I'd give the finder of that tool a bottle of whiskey, or a #6 camalot, or both, or whatever. Something worthy of the effort. I just meant dinner/beer as a turn of phrase, ie, a token of appreciation.


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By bay
Feb 10, 2012

Mooner wrote:
The land owner ( or at least his neibors) seems very protective of it The picture above is something we found and I do not know the name of it and have yet to find any previous info on. it. It a lso is not located on private land.


hahaha, consider yourself lucky!

the same year (97/98) we started poachin' ice in strawberry canyon happened to be the same year when the infamous strawberry canyon rancher, John Pinder, committed brutal double homicide of two hired ranch hands who apparently were shot, blown up, run over, tilled under, partially fed to his african lion, and partially thrown into the river for the purported reason of petty theft. news.google.com/newspapers?nid=336&dat=19981103&id=NKgpAAAAI>>>

and to think, some of the ice we poached that season, occured on his land, in plain sight.

a quick look at the Duchesne County parcel geodatabase available on the Utah Automated Geographic Information Center server, gis.utah.gov/sgid ,shows that most of the ice and/or access to the ice are located on private and indian land. track down the geodb file and you'll get names and possibly digits of the land owners, that is if your wanting to gain access the right way.

and yes, your photo of Excalibur (Timber Canyon) is unfortunately located on the edge of private land.


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By Thomas G.
From Provo, Utah
Feb 10, 2012
hardcore bouldering

bay wrote:
hahaha, consider yourself lucky! the same year (97/98) we started poachin' ice in strawberry canyon happened to be the same year when the infamous strawberry canyon rancher, John Pinder, committed brutal double homicide of two hired ranch hands who apparently were shot, blown up, run over, tilled under, partially fed to his african lion, and partially thrown into the river for the purported reason of petty theft.


This makes me feel so much better about yesterday. Things really, really could've gone a lot worse for us.


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By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 10, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Wow...the things you learn in an ice conditions thread...

www.romingerlegal.com/utah/opinions/pinder030405.htm

Objective hazards? Yikes!


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By Nathan Smith
From Salt Lake City
Feb 10, 2012

Last Chance Falls in the Right Fork of Logan Canyon is still fat. Not sure if it is really worth the drive from Salt Lake, but if you live closer, it is a fun line. Too bad there is not much else in the area.


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By Wyatt H
From Casper, Wy
Feb 10, 2012

Are the Falls up Providence Canyon in at all?


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By Thomas G.
From Provo, Utah
Feb 11, 2012
hardcore bouldering

These guys are besties.
These guys are besties.
Submitted By: Thomas G. on Feb 11, 2012



Back together again at last. Everything up Strawberry is still in fat, but SUPER WET (as in, my waterproof shell and Alpine Alibi's got soaked, along with the rest of me)on Exaclibur. Fun times.


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 12, 2012
Lead climbing.

Anyone interested in getting out this week for some laps on something? I'm free on tuesday and thursday. Pretty flexible with scheduling/locations.

gafoto@gmail.com or shoot me a text at 5402047951


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By bay
Feb 14, 2012

bay wrote:
and yes, your photo of Excalibur (Timber Canyon) is unfortunately located on the edge of private land.


okay ice-sportfans, upon further review, Excalibur is located on State-owned land.


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