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2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread
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By Mike Washburn
From Orem, Utah
Jan 24, 2012
My feeling has been that stair way to heaven is outside of the slide path. Not so with the Bridal Veil climbs and other Provo Canyon routes of course. Feel free to correct me on this. In fact I'll look at it on google earth to verify.

Ok I just looked and the route seems protected by the ridge. It could maybe send down loose sluffs during a storm but there doesn't seem to be any where up there for a slab to form. The is why the old tram building up to survived the "big one" of 95-96.

The trick is getting to the base without venturing east into the BIG slide path.

FLAG
By ddriver
From SLC
Jan 25, 2012
Mike Washburn wrote:
My feeling has been that stair way to heaven is outside of the slide path.


I think you're about 99% right. I seem to recall though that when Rick Wyatt did the first solo ascent of Stairway he had a slide of some sort come down on him, but he was fortunate to be under one of the overhangs around the 5th or 6th pitch up. It might have been mostly spindrift from an active storm. Someone correct me if I've got that wrong.

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By Hunter Enochs
From Park City, UT
Jan 25, 2012
holla
Any other ice or mixed that is relatively safe? Looking for a partner for Thursday or Friday.

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By Josh Allred
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 27, 2012
P3 on Nutcracker.
Anybody know what the Donorcicle, CCC and Marys Lake look like right now?

Also does anyone know if there are any other routes to TR at Joes?

Thanks a bunch!

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By Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Jan 27, 2012
hardcore bouldering
Climbed all three pitches of CCC yesterday(January 27th)--the bottom pitch was a little soft, but it gradually got better. The 3rd pitch was in good condition; everyone in our party was able to safely lead (or solo!) it with plenty of opportunities for screw placements beneath the somewhat chandeleired exterior.

Also did Deadbolt all the way up. The crux curtain was wet and super chandeleired--nobody felt like leading it, so we snuck around and toproped it. In general, the ice was wet, but perfectly climbable. All the snow melt-off is just making things a little slick. Masterlock looked in and fat.

No idea how the donorcicle is--spear of fear was standing, but looked incredibly sun-baked and cauliflowered.

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By Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Jan 27, 2012
hardcore bouldering
Pictures of Joe's Valley, 1-26-2012


Matt topping out his solo of the 3rd pitch of CCC
Matt topping out his solo of the 3rd pitch of CCC


Me leading the 3rd from above.
Me leading the 3rd from above.


Matt J. lickin' his lips it's so good.
Matt J. lickin' his lips it's so good.


Main curtain of Deadbolt. It was wet, but tons of ...
Main curtain of Deadbolt. It was wet, but tons of fun still.


More deadbolt fun.
More deadbolt fun.

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By Ian Hanson
Jan 28, 2012
Cold day in Rjukan, Norway
Does anybody know the mixed rating of the line that goes from the bottom of the second pitch of the GWI to the rappel anchors pn the ledge? Right where you rap down? There is a manky old pin where the ice meets the rock

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By bsmoot
Jan 28, 2012
Me in the 70's
Climbed in Provo Canyon today...Stairway is still in.

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By paintrain
Jan 29, 2012
Chuck Norris can Divide by Zero
GWI conditions - Hall and Oats.

It's good to the top.

PT

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By Glen B
From Murray, UT
Jan 29, 2012
CCC and Donorcicle were in good shape friday.

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By matt tuttle
Jan 31, 2012
Sat 12-28 ACT is in good and steep, Candlestick Fat top out is super thin to nonexistant be super careful would not be a good whip! Angel of Fear does not touch:)
Scott Adamson, Candlestick
Scott Adamson, Candlestick


Matt Tuttle, Angel of Fear/Holy Ghost
Matt Tuttle, Angel of Fear/Holy Ghost

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By Rob Man
From SLC UT
Jan 31, 2012
mountain sunset
Clay,
When did you climb these routes and what do you mean the walk off was difficult on Back off?
How much snow in in the canyon now???
Thanks
Rob

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By Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Feb 1, 2012
Stairway To Heaven - all the way to the Pearly Gat...
Just remember there are some killer bowls above Squashed Head and Backoff that are great shape for ripping out. I have seen Squashed Head horking big time.

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By Rob Man
From SLC UT
Feb 1, 2012
mountain sunset
Thanks Clay for the photo and the decent prospective, much appreciated!

Allen, I know what you mean I've seen a 15ft. debris pile with trees in it at the base of Squash head :(

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By Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Feb 2, 2012
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior
The stuff out in Strawberry is Huge. We climbed a huge pillar in Timber canyon that is over 100 ft. tall, I think it might be Excalibur- definitely WI5. We hunted down 4 other climbs in that canyon (Timber) and looked at the HUGE climbs behind the home further down the main road, but could not figure out how to access those.
Dallen

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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Feb 7, 2012
Hummm...
Sunny-D wrote:
The stuff out in Strawberry is Huge... Dallen


And I'm stuck sitting at my desk in WDC...The cabin just miles away from lovely ice:( Thanks SunnyD; why do you taunt me like this. I really gotta retire...

On another note: what's the hubbub about sportage in Santaquin canyon?

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By Eric and Lucie
From Boulder, CO
Feb 8, 2012
Does anyone have recent info about ice conditions around Provo? Pics would be even better! Thanks!

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By akafaultline
Feb 8, 2012
Climbed provo today-Bridal veil right is in to the top. Good conditions and dry.

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By Harry Richardson
Feb 9, 2012
Provo Canyon...Bolted small mixed line between Bridal Veil Left and Bridal Veil Right...4 bolts...M4-M5 depending on conditions...new chains 5' to the left of Bridal Veil Right chains...route name = B.V.M.

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By Rob Man
From SLC UT
Feb 9, 2012
mountain sunset
Me and my friend Dan top roped that climb last week and we thought it might be worth bolting, congratulating

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By Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Feb 9, 2012
hardcore bouldering
Hey guys!

So after reading (and laughing at) a bunch of MP posts about lost tools, I finally managed to lose one of my own. I guess it's not lost--I mean, I know the exact WI5 pillar that it's on top of--there's just no way in hell that I'll be able to lead up it.

So, just wanted to see if anyone was interested in going on a trip. I'll pay for gas, all you have to do is get up a super sweet line that almost never gets climbed. It's in the Strawberry Pinnacles.

Alternatively, if you wanted to go up there on your own and get it for me, I'd definitely get you a beer.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks,

Thomas

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By Mooner
From Bountiful, UT
Feb 10, 2012
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12

Drool all you want. This is what Thomas, Dan and I found in Strawberry Pinnacles today 2/09/12. Is this motivation enough to get in touch with Thomas, to go help him get his tool back?

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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 10, 2012
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.
Went down to Joe's Valley today and climbed CCC Falls and the Donorcicle. Both are in fantastic shape, with just the far thin right curtain of the upper pitch of CCC Falls having dropped off. Saw the Pricecicle on the way down and it is pretty monstrous. Filthy looking but very large.

CCC Falls was fun but the real meat was on the Donorcicle:
Donorcicle on 2/9/12
Donorcicle on 2/9/12


My climbing partner hiked around to the top and set up a TR. Very doable with the 60M rope. We did laps on the center and left side but it looks climbable all over. The ice is weirdly formed so it would be a real challenge to lead. Fun climbing though.

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By Nathan Smith
From Salt Lake City
Feb 10, 2012
"Drool all you want. This is what Thomas, Dan and I found in Strawberry Pinnacles today 2/09/12."

The climb in Mooner's photo is Excalibur WI5. Super fun pillar.

FLAG
 
By Mooner
From Bountiful, UT
Feb 10, 2012
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12
In reality Nathan it is not Excalibur. We did go to Excalibur but were chased off the land by some guy with a camera saying he was going to call the sheriff for trespassing. For the record we didn't have our ice gear with us and went and knocked on the land owners door first then went back to look at it. So the moral of the story is call before attempting Excalibur. The land owner ( or at least his neibors) seems very protective of it
The picture above is something we found and I do not know the name of it and have yet to find any previous info on. it. It a lso is not located on private land.

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