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2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread
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Oct 9, 2011
hardcore bouldering
It's probably a little early to start this thread, but since Colorado has its own, we better get on it. Drove past the dirtcicle last night, and there was the slightest hint of icicles hanging on. It should be long now.

Does anyone know if ice has started to form up near Emerald Lake on the backside of Timp? Let's hope the cold lasts for a bit here.
Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Joined Feb 18, 2010
105 points
Oct 10, 2011
Our less than official sponsor!
Wow Thomas...you are eager! Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
Joined May 18, 2007
2,274 points
Oct 11, 2011
There's icicle lights on my house.... sevrdhed
Joined Oct 23, 2006
157 points
Oct 31, 2011
Stairway to Heaven, pitch three, Provo Canyon, UT
Right around this time of year I do an exploratory jaunt up into Alpine Grove for some ice spotting. Wouldn't mind doing it with ice gear and a partner this year to make the most out of anything we might find. Alec
Joined Sep 9, 2007
563 points
Oct 31, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton
Saw the small pockets of ice on the apron yesterday from the highway. Some of the route's further (and higher) up the canyon looked like they were just starting to form too.

This weekend should help, looks like we'll get some precipitation.
Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Joined Apr 8, 2010
149 points
Nov 2, 2011
Hiked up to emerald lake today on Timpanogos. Virtually no ice is forming in aspen grove area except down low at the first waterfall. Stairway to heaven is still forming as well as millers thriller etc. akafaultline
Joined Nov 27, 2007
70 points
Nov 4, 2011
could someone post some pics of provo canyon and any other areas.

Rob
atrau
Joined Jun 26, 2007
15 points
Nov 5, 2011
View from up above the hand crack
I will let you all know after the weekend. Im going to go scout out ice and really hope to find some. So by the end of the weekend Ill be able to tell you what the ice conditions are Nathaniel Holt
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Jul 1, 2011
144 points
Nov 5, 2011
View from up above the hand crack
Hiked up back side of Timp today in hopes of some decent alpine routes with some accumulation of ice. Sad to report that there wasnt too much going on yet, but I have a feeling that later this week that may change, if the new snow goes through a nice melt-freeze cycle.

There was some ice on the falls lower down on the trail... My tool stuck into it pretty well. I didnt climb it tho b/c we wanted to find a good long route to do, and even high up there really wasnt much.

Did anybody else go out today and have any luck in finding good ice?
Nathaniel Holt
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Jul 1, 2011
144 points
Nov 6, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton
Per Rob's request:


Stairway to Heaven
Stairway to Heaven



Upper pitches
Upper pitches

You might get a little wet, but without scrambling to the base, I think you could climb some thin stuff on the Apron right now. . . next two days for snow & cold temps should help fill things out.
Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Joined Apr 8, 2010
149 points
Nov 7, 2011
Micheal,

Thanks!!!!

this looks great for this early in the season, most likely will fall at some point from now until colder regular temps. I am going to head up there in the next few weeks, and my hope is things are solid by then.

Its awesome Micheal putting in this big effort to get info out there to the world. When I am in town I would love to do some belaying for you, if you have a project in mind.

Rob
atrau
Joined Jun 26, 2007
15 points
Nov 7, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton
atrau wrote:
Micheal, Thanks!!!!


No problem. Since Nathaniel and I live about 10 minutes from the canyon, its not at all an imposition for us to snap some shots.
Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Joined Apr 8, 2010
149 points
Nov 7, 2011
hardcore bouldering
Drove up the canyon at around 5 last night, and there seemed to be considerably more ice than in Michael's picture. It seems to be forming well--I'll head up in a day or two and snap some shots when the light is better. Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Joined Feb 18, 2010
105 points
Nov 7, 2011
Sunrise on the summit of Cotopaxi, Ecuador.
I could do some recon in the Primrose Cirque on Thursday. Looks like some good, cold nights leading up to Thursday. Maybe we'll find a treasure... Matt Jesperson
Joined Nov 13, 2007
141 points
Nov 7, 2011
bugaboo spire
Theres some ice forming up battle creek canyon. jackson marvell
From lindon utah
Joined Aug 24, 2011
27 points
Nov 9, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton
Today:

The Apron, Stairway to Heaven
The Apron, Stairway to Heaven



Again
Again
Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Joined Apr 8, 2010
149 points
Nov 9, 2011
Great picture Michael.

First winter in Utah, cant wait for the ice.

Heading to Stairway to Heaven on Friday, good to see its climbable.

Also, I only have one season of ice climbing under my belt from Georgia (dont laugh), how much of Stairway to Heaven is top rope-able and are there anchors? Or do you need to lead it, build an anchor then start top roping?
Kyle Gochenour
Joined Nov 9, 2011
0 points
Nov 9, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton
Kyle Gochenour wrote:
Great picture Michael. First winter in Utah, cant wait for the ice. Heading to Stairway to Heaven on Friday, good to see its climbable. Also, I only have one season of ice climbing under my belt from Georgia (dont laugh), how much of Stairway to Heaven is top rope-able and are there anchors? Or do you need to lead it, build an anchor then start top roping?


The Apron, a wide fan of ice which forms at the bottom is easily top-roped by walking across a relatively wide shelf (~7 feet) to chain anchors (held away from the wall which gets covered in ice by piping) or screws you place in the plentiful ice. Be careful traversing to the anchors, though as its easy to see how someone might be lured into taking it too easily.

We're gonna be up there again tomorrow (Thursday morning) around 8, for anyone who wants to join in on the top roping fun. I suspect most folks have work or class, though.
Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Joined Apr 8, 2010
149 points
Nov 10, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton
Scratch that. Not going up tomorrow AM. Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Joined Apr 8, 2010
149 points
Nov 11, 2011
Sunrise on the summit of Cotopaxi, Ecuador.
Robert's Horn ice, 11/10/11. Still thin for our taste, but getting there. Climbed around on the large moat.











Matt Jesperson
Joined Nov 13, 2007
141 points
Nov 11, 2011
Thanks everyone for all the Stairway to Heaven beta. It was a great climb today on the Apron. Ice was in a little more than Michaels pictures from earlier this week.

There was another group up there too, not sure if they were anyone here, but they mentioned Mountain Project.

I was really impressed with the climb, the ice was nice and sticky and you didnt get too wet. But it was really flowing in spots. There was a lot more rockfall than I would have liked but I guess that comes with the territory. Its going to be a great winter for sure!
Kyle Gochenour
Joined Nov 9, 2011
0 points
Nov 12, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton
Kyle Gochenour wrote:
Thanks everyone for all the Stairway to Heaven beta. It was a great climb today on the Apron. Ice was in a little more than Michaels pictures from earlier this week. There was another group up there too, not sure if they were anyone here, but they mentioned Mountain Project. I was really impressed with the climb, the ice was nice and sticky and you didnt get too wet. But it was really flowing in spots. There was a lot more rockfall than I would have liked but I guess that comes with the territory. Its going to be a great winter for sure!


Hey Kyle, that was us. I was the one snapping photos and chatting with Asher (that right?) when you guys were hiking up.

Since I was so stoaked to have ice again, that was my third time up this week. Hopefully this weather will help get some of the upper pitches established.
Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Joined Apr 8, 2010
149 points
Nov 12, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton
Matt Jesperson wrote:
Robert's Horn ice, 11/10/11. Still thin for our taste, but getting there. Climbed around on the large moat.


Thanks for the photos, Matt. Were your photos taken at the prominent line of ice that you can see in the middle of your first photo of the face?
Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Joined Apr 8, 2010
149 points
Nov 13, 2011
avatar
Drove back from Moab last night and...

wait for it...

The Dirtsicle is in!!!
zoso
Joined Jun 3, 2007
507 points
Nov 15, 2011
Climbing
Now when you say the dirtsicle is in... how in is it? Photos? dante kleinman
From Denali National Park, AK
Joined Dec 2, 2010
17 points
Nov 15, 2011
View from up above the hand crack
What is the horn looking like this week? Those were some sweet pics from Matt Jasperson. Id be willing to go try it out if someone wants to go with me (Michael Davidson). But for real safe enough to climb up back side of timp? any route?

Cheers to the sub-zero temps we love so much :)
Nathaniel Holt
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Jul 1, 2011
144 points


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