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2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread
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By Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Oct 9, 2011
hardcore bouldering

It's probably a little early to start this thread, but since Colorado has its own, we better get on it. Drove past the dirtcicle last night, and there was the slightest hint of icicles hanging on. It should be long now.

Does anyone know if ice has started to form up near Emerald Lake on the backside of Timp? Let's hope the cold lasts for a bit here.


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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
Oct 10, 2011
Our less than official sponsor!

Wow Thomas...you are eager!


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By sevrdhed
Oct 11, 2011

There's icicle lights on my house....


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By Alec
Oct 31, 2011
Stairway to Heaven, pitch three, Provo Canyon, UT

Right around this time of year I do an exploratory jaunt up into Alpine Grove for some ice spotting. Wouldn't mind doing it with ice gear and a partner this year to make the most out of anything we might find.


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By Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Oct 31, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton

Saw the small pockets of ice on the apron yesterday from the highway. Some of the route's further (and higher) up the canyon looked like they were just starting to form too.

This weekend should help, looks like we'll get some precipitation.


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By akafaultline
Nov 2, 2011

Hiked up to emerald lake today on Timpanogos. Virtually no ice is forming in aspen grove area except down low at the first waterfall. Stairway to heaven is still forming as well as millers thriller etc.


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By atrau
Nov 4, 2011

could someone post some pics of provo canyon and any other areas.

Rob


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By Nathaniel Holt
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 5, 2011
View from up above the hand crack

I will let you all know after the weekend. Im going to go scout out ice and really hope to find some. So by the end of the weekend Ill be able to tell you what the ice conditions are


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By Nathaniel Holt
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 5, 2011
View from up above the hand crack

Hiked up back side of Timp today in hopes of some decent alpine routes with some accumulation of ice. Sad to report that there wasnt too much going on yet, but I have a feeling that later this week that may change, if the new snow goes through a nice melt-freeze cycle.

There was some ice on the falls lower down on the trail... My tool stuck into it pretty well. I didnt climb it tho b/c we wanted to find a good long route to do, and even high up there really wasnt much.

Did anybody else go out today and have any luck in finding good ice?


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By Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Nov 6, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton

Per Rob's request:


Stairway to Heaven
Stairway to Heaven



Upper pitches
Upper pitches

You might get a little wet, but without scrambling to the base, I think you could climb some thin stuff on the Apron right now. . . next two days for snow & cold temps should help fill things out.


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By atrau
Nov 7, 2011

Micheal,

Thanks!!!!

this looks great for this early in the season, most likely will fall at some point from now until colder regular temps. I am going to head up there in the next few weeks, and my hope is things are solid by then.

Its awesome Micheal putting in this big effort to get info out there to the world. When I am in town I would love to do some belaying for you, if you have a project in mind.

Rob


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By Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Nov 7, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton

atrau wrote:
Micheal, Thanks!!!!


No problem. Since Nathaniel and I live about 10 minutes from the canyon, its not at all an imposition for us to snap some shots.


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By Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Nov 7, 2011
hardcore bouldering

Drove up the canyon at around 5 last night, and there seemed to be considerably more ice than in Michael's picture. It seems to be forming well--I'll head up in a day or two and snap some shots when the light is better.


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By Matt Jesperson
Nov 7, 2011
Sunrise on the summit of Cotopaxi, Ecuador.

I could do some recon in the Primrose Cirque on Thursday. Looks like some good, cold nights leading up to Thursday. Maybe we'll find a treasure...


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By jackson marvell
From lindon utah
Nov 7, 2011

Theres some ice forming up battle creek canyon.


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By Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Nov 9, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton

Today:

The Apron, Stairway to Heaven
The Apron, Stairway to Heaven



Again
Again


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By Kyle Gochenour
Nov 9, 2011

Great picture Michael.

First winter in Utah, cant wait for the ice.

Heading to Stairway to Heaven on Friday, good to see its climbable.

Also, I only have one season of ice climbing under my belt from Georgia (dont laugh), how much of Stairway to Heaven is top rope-able and are there anchors? Or do you need to lead it, build an anchor then start top roping?


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By Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Nov 9, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton

Kyle Gochenour wrote:
Great picture Michael. First winter in Utah, cant wait for the ice. Heading to Stairway to Heaven on Friday, good to see its climbable. Also, I only have one season of ice climbing under my belt from Georgia (dont laugh), how much of Stairway to Heaven is top rope-able and are there anchors? Or do you need to lead it, build an anchor then start top roping?


The Apron, a wide fan of ice which forms at the bottom is easily top-roped by walking across a relatively wide shelf (~7 feet) to chain anchors (held away from the wall which gets covered in ice by piping) or screws you place in the plentiful ice. Be careful traversing to the anchors, though as its easy to see how someone might be lured into taking it too easily.

We're gonna be up there again tomorrow (Thursday morning) around 8, for anyone who wants to join in on the top roping fun. I suspect most folks have work or class, though.


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By Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Nov 10, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton

Scratch that. Not going up tomorrow AM.


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By Matt Jesperson
Nov 11, 2011
Sunrise on the summit of Cotopaxi, Ecuador.

Robert's Horn ice, 11/10/11. Still thin for our taste, but getting there. Climbed around on the large moat.












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By Kyle Gochenour
Nov 11, 2011

Thanks everyone for all the Stairway to Heaven beta. It was a great climb today on the Apron. Ice was in a little more than Michaels pictures from earlier this week.

There was another group up there too, not sure if they were anyone here, but they mentioned Mountain Project.

I was really impressed with the climb, the ice was nice and sticky and you didnt get too wet. But it was really flowing in spots. There was a lot more rockfall than I would have liked but I guess that comes with the territory. Its going to be a great winter for sure!


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By Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Nov 12, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton

Kyle Gochenour wrote:
Thanks everyone for all the Stairway to Heaven beta. It was a great climb today on the Apron. Ice was in a little more than Michaels pictures from earlier this week. There was another group up there too, not sure if they were anyone here, but they mentioned Mountain Project. I was really impressed with the climb, the ice was nice and sticky and you didnt get too wet. But it was really flowing in spots. There was a lot more rockfall than I would have liked but I guess that comes with the territory. Its going to be a great winter for sure!


Hey Kyle, that was us. I was the one snapping photos and chatting with Asher (that right?) when you guys were hiking up.

Since I was so stoaked to have ice again, that was my third time up this week. Hopefully this weather will help get some of the upper pitches established.


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By Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Nov 12, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton

Matt Jesperson wrote:
Robert's Horn ice, 11/10/11. Still thin for our taste, but getting there. Climbed around on the large moat.


Thanks for the photos, Matt. Were your photos taken at the prominent line of ice that you can see in the middle of your first photo of the face?


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By zoso
Nov 13, 2011
avatar

Drove back from Moab last night and...

wait for it...

The Dirtsicle is in!!!


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By dante kleinman
From Denali National Park, AK
Nov 15, 2011
Climbing

Now when you say the dirtsicle is in... how in is it? Photos?


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By Nathaniel Holt
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 15, 2011
View from up above the hand crack

What is the horn looking like this week? Those were some sweet pics from Matt Jasperson. Id be willing to go try it out if someone wants to go with me (Michael Davidson). But for real safe enough to climb up back side of timp? any route?

Cheers to the sub-zero temps we love so much :)


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