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This route has two starts that both lead to an obvious, huge bivy ledge 18 and 3/4 feet off the deck!! The first start is just right of the Hellraiser chimney.
I cleaned some scary loose rock out of the chimney, and I also cleaned a lot of dirt and rubble out of the obvious, sweet hand crack just right of the chimney. Enjoy the clean handcrack!!!! Too bad it is not wayyyy longer. I placed two # 1 Camalots to get to the now clean ledge.
Start # 2 climbs up the bulgy face around the corner and to the right of the previous start. This start climbs past 1 bolt, then a good medium TCU placement, then another bolt to the obvious ledge. Once on the ledge, one can make the route way harder and even more contrived and climb left of the bolts that lead up the clean face past the overlap and to the anchor on the ledge 5.?. Being the weak man that I am, I climbed to the chimney clipping the first bolt on the left. I then placed two RPs in the bomber flake and then moved left onto the awesome steep face past the overlap and on sweet jugs to the ledge and the chain anchor on the left. One can also bail out right to the anchor for "Half and Half 2".
Page 85 Hellraiser, topo p.84 Haas and Scheider. This next route has two starts that both lead to an obvious, huge, bivy ledge 18 and 3/4 feet off the deck!! The first start is just right of the Hellraiser chimney.
Both starts/routes are mixed. Use bolts and gear to a #1 Camalot.
Eds. there are 6 bolts & anchor bolts to the left of the last bolt.
Best moves on 2 Ways 2 Hell.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the second bolt on the bolted star...
Hand crack 2 Ways 2 Hell.
BETA PHOTO: The "Long" chains at the anchor!
Dave warming up on start #2.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the handcrack of variation #1.
|By Keith H. North|
From: Englewood, CO
Mar 27, 2011
Hey, got on this route, I believe, still has quite a bit of of loose rock and a little sketchy rock, nice bolts. WOW! Those are some beefy chains at the finish.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Dec 29, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
The upper face has four bolts and the start has two, for a total of six bolts.