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Brian's Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1. V0 
2. V1 
3. V4/5 

2. V1 

Hueco: V1 Font: 5

   
Type:  Boulder, 16'
Consensus:  Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 426
Submitted By: Mark Lewis on Mar 20, 2013
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

The start hold is on a low jug. Climb up utilizing a left undercling and angle right into a small, broken dihedral with a good crack leading the way to the top.

The crux is probably moving into the dihedral, after that it's a fun couple moves to top out.


Location 

This problem is located just to the left of the SE corner of the boulder on the South face. If you are standing in front of the problem there will be a sub-boulder just to your right which isn't connected to the main Brian boulder.

The starting jug is fairly obvious, as well as the undercling on the crack system that starts up into the broken dihedral.

All problems on this boulder utilize the down climb on the NE corner. The problems are too high to simply jump off of.


Protection 

There is a good flat spot to start on, but the right angled problem leads you over a small sub-boulder that you do not want to fall on. Doing so would surely lead to serious injury or worse.

This problem should be treated like it's 'X' rated.

Having said that, there is a great flake hold up near the top which looks oh so enticingly inviting - don't use it, as it's suspect and if it broke would land you onto the sub-boulder.



Comments on 2. V1 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 5, 2013

16 photos of a short V1? Picking and choosing a few good photos is a lost art.

By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 24, 2013

Yup, 16 photos. The viewer can choose which ones to look at. It is unfortunate to hear that these pics bother you. Thanks for your feedback.

By zenetopia
Sep 25, 2013

"16 photos of a short V1? Picking and choosing a few good photos is a lost art."

I happen to know Mark lewis, and he is actually a very... very good photographer. Find something else to complain about... if you don't want to look at all 16, then don't. It is that simple. Being polite and supportive, apparently is a lost art.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 25, 2013

A great photographer might refrain from framing his shots so that the climber's feet are cropped and his shadow, shoes or half of his leg end up in the frame. He might also consider moving back a bit so that more of a third of the problem is visible and avoiding heinous buttshots.

I'm sure Mark is a great guy and photographer and you're great at defending your friends on the internet. You both make a very poor show of it on here though... Andrew was as polite as can be and doesn't have to be supportive. This isn't about a kid showing his mom his first drawing, support may need to be earned?

I am politely supporting Andrew's opinion that one pic of this problem would have been sufficient and the other 15 could have lived happily ever after on someone's blog/twitter.

By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 25, 2013

Wow, didn't expect this negativity from SLC boys...unfortunate and disappointing.

The above pics are merely posted to provide beta and some climbing porn. They are not works of art, never intended them to be. They are a bunch of pics of an obscure hunk of rock in the middle of the desert.

My gallery photos are meticulously shot and screened - these bouldering photos are just for fun because we had a great time playing around out at Ibex and thought I'd share it with others. If you have a problem with my sharing please disregard any of my site contributions and we'll both be happier for it.

What is up with you guys? This type of treatment really dissuades people from contributing to this site, and in the end what did this type of approach really accomplish? Snarky comments won't make these pics go away, but Andrew is an admin, he has the power to delete any of them if he believes I'm 'out of line' in posting them.

Andrew & Boissal, I've often looked through and browsed your site contributions. I have enjoyed doing so, despite any perceived issues with what you post. I enjoy seeing what you two have experienced, even if some of the pictures aren't framed right, have correct white balance, exposure, depth of field, et. al. I enjoy them for what they are. I'm not ruffled in any way if a butt shot comes up in your photo albums, or if there are multiple pics of a simple boulder problem.

Boissal, I can appreciate you coming to 'defend' your friend Andrew's opinion. Our opinion of what is valid to share on this site differ, to be sure.

Zen - thanks for being supportive!

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 25, 2013

Nobody claims you're out of line, Andrew appears to have suggested that 16 pics might have been a few too many, something I tend to agree with and have thought about in the past when you posted bundles of pics of each choss heap you climbed in Maple, AF, etc... I never bothered to comment because 1) mp.com pays for the storage space I don't, 2) you're obviously psyched, 3) somewhere in the list there might be a shot which is good or provides beta and 4) I've posted tons of pics that most people would find unworthy.

I don't know Andrew Gram so defending him wasn't really my intention. I just wanted to point out to Zen that if he was going to claim you as the second coming of Andrew Burr, he had picked 15 poor examples. ?This picture? would have been more appropriate... By all means keep doing your thing and feel free to consider SLC boys as capable of the same negativity as anyone.

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 30, 2013

They aren't out of line so I wouldn't delete them. I'm an admin, but I have a very light hand with the edit or delete button. I would encourage picking a couple of higher quality photos though - less is often more. If everyone posted 16 photos of every route they've done, the site would become unnavigable in a hurry, and lots of similar photos don't really add much to the overall site quality. Think of the site as more of a guidebook than a facebook page.

I'm glad you haven't suffered too much looking at my amateurish photos. I cull the vast majority and rarely post more than one or two unless it is a new route, something adventurous that won't be climbed again for a long time, or from back when the pre-mountainproject site was a dusty cobweb and I was trying to get enough content going for a critical mass to start to get other contributions(which worked - I started climbingmoab.com, and climbingsaltlake.com had essentially no contributions before I started posting). Most of the really bad ones are photos taken from 10-25 years ago, when equipment wasn't as forgiving as it is now. I guess I should go through and delete the bad ones that have been superseded by better entries.

By user id
Oct 1, 2013

Ahh...the obligatory, and butthurt deleting of all photos.
The ultimate "storm-off" with ball maneuver.