|Green Mountain Pinnacle
Looking for a good, old-fashioned thrashfest up a gnarly offwidth? I was, but this climb failed to satisfy my wide-crack desires....
On the south face of Green Mountain Pinnacle is a prominent, right-arching crack most easily viewed from points south, such as the 5th Flatiron. This line ascends the crack to the east face of GMP; a belay can be built under a flake near the top of the wall that forms the south side of Takin' Care of Business/ West Chimney.
This climb is located on the south face of Green Mountain Pinnacle. On foot, follow standard directions to GMP's north face, but keep heading uphill, turning south as to approach Takin' Care of Business/ West Chimney. Continue south for a few meters, stepping left (east) around the corner and up some blocks about 40 feet to some nice ledges beneath the crack. If you head left into the tree-filled "alley," you've gone too far.
This climb can also be approached by climbing other stuff (recommended) rather than bushwhacking uphill - scramble the first two sections of East Face/4th Flatiron into the alley on the south side of GMP. Then, climb Faith and Resurrection; once you top out, heading up the slab will bring you to the base of this crack.
This is a wide pitch; bring a single span of Camalots (new style) from #0.75 to #6 - smaller sizes for the belay, larger pieces for pro. It would not be unreasonable to solo this line, since you could wedge yourself in the crack if you got nervous.
It's a man-eater! ...or is it? Photo by Jesse Ram...
South Face of GMP.
|By Aaron Martinuzzi|
Sep 30, 2009
Given the prominence of this crack, especially when viewing Green Mountain Pinnacle from the south, I feel like there's a good chance this line has been done before; then again, given its apparent OW nature, absence from both the old Rossiter and new Haas guides to the Flatirons, and crumbly-ness, I was inclined to think/hope I might be treading on new ground when I climbed this route today (and ogled it all summer).
If anyone knows a story behind this line that I'm not aware of, I'll happily give credit where it is due, otherwise I'm keeping ALL the glory for myself.
As for the name, I had some high expectations for this climb. First of all, I think it would be totally awesome to do alpine, hardman-style FAs, and I was sure this climb would be my first tutorial in the unexpected difficulties encountered on first ascents. Secondly, I was really hoping to battle in an offwidth, and though the crack was wide, it doesn't necessitate OW technique, and the pitch was pretty uneventful and painless. So, much like many people's "first time," your dreams don't always manifest themselves in reality.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 1, 2009
Well, not many people head up that side, and Jason and I didn't do it when we first did Faith and Resurection, so I suspect you have one on your hands there. There are a lot more to be had- very few of them are stunning, but there is a lot of rock in The Flatirons and it certainly hasn't all been climbed.
|By Aaron Martinuzzi|
Oct 1, 2009
Cool Tony, good to know - I figured if it had been done & recorded by someone it would have been by you guys with F&R.
|By Rick Blair|
May 18, 2011
I love the route description and the comment above as well, good stuff! You sucked me in with the opening sentence. Congratulations for putting your name on an FA in one of the most famous climbing areas in the country! Did you fight over who would get to lead it?