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Fay Canyon
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2 Legit 2 Quit  

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Spies, Tony Bartoletti, Cody Ferguson, John Domaska
New Route: Yes
Season: Morning Sun, Afternoon Shade
Page Views: 2,912
Submitted By: Dave Spies on Dec 17, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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summit

Description 

All types of climbing from fingers to fists, face to off-width, and exposed overhangs to chimney. Test every style you have in your bag of tricks. All clean pitches (rare for sedona)

Location 

Fay Canyon Butttress, Sedona, AZ See topo for details

Protection 

70m rope or two 60m. Camalot or equivalent Double #.4-#2 Single #3, #4. 6 extendable draws.


Photos of 2 Legit 2 Quit Slideshow Add Photo
On the first full ascent, January 2010, I think.  ...
On the first full ascent, January 2010, I think. ...
view from approach.  pitch 1 corner bottom right o...
BETA PHOTO: view from approach. pitch 1 corner bottom right o...
looking at p2-p5, p2 Hey Hey variation out of view...
BETA PHOTO: looking at p2-p5, p2 Hey Hey variation out of view...
2 Legit not to climb
BETA PHOTO: 2 Legit not to climb
Topo and approach
BETA PHOTO: Topo and approach
traverse below anchor starting pitch 3
traverse below anchor starting pitch 3
route from approach.  Big tan buttress/ wide crack...
BETA PHOTO: route from approach. Big tan buttress/ wide crack...
pitch 2
pitch 2
Pitch 3 Roof.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3 Roof.
cody on pitch 3 crux
cody on pitch 3 crux
Jim Donini following the first chimney pitch. Nice...
Jim Donini following the first chimney pitch. Nice...

Comments on 2 Legit 2 Quit Add Comment
Show which comments
By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
Mar 24, 2015
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

CONDITION REPORT 
Fun route but a bit harder than 10- for a few short sections.
Approach took 1:15 at a good pace but I have to admit I havent sweat so much for awhile!
P1: starts out easy but unprotected traverse 30ft then 5.8 LB shifting left on face.
P2: move belay 200ft to the left, goes up left leaning flake. Very nice pitch of mostly hands, a bit awkward makes this solid 5.9.
P3: fairly strenuous chimney after downclimb traverse below anchor (heads up to follower!) It could be nicer if couple of loose blocks were trundled with a crowbar. I placed a cam next to one of these blocks for psychological protection if not to keep me off the anchor 30ft below! Moving out from under the big roof is awesome! Cool moves and huge exposure; I think this pitch is probably 10c for the onsite, perhaps easier on repeat. Finish the pitch with some moderate OW.
P4: Traverse right from belay and move up the east face following bolts on RedRocks style crimps and insipient cracks. It would be a bad fall (around the corner and back into the chimney) if you missed this clip but it's not that hard. Pitch ends with a short but hard (10+) OW. There is an uninspiring bolt and a slung chock stone. It might be more comforting to bring a #4.5Camalot.
P5: Grovel up another chimney, exiting the chimney to hand cracks is fun.
Rap anchors currently in good condition, 70M rope pulls are clean.
Recommend single set to 4.5
Summit views are unparalleled.
Thanks Dave for the adventure.
By Dave Spies
From: Sedona, AZ
Dec 17, 2012

The FA was done ground up in 2010 and most bolts were added later.

I would like feedback on the ratings. Also could use some new paint on bolts if you have the time. Tried to camo all bolts and chains, but the paint I had sucks.

Also some fun TR variations if you have extra time. At least 9 possible pitches of climbing that make the approach totally worth it. And some ruins if you search hard enough. Please do not disturb ruins or collect artifacts.
By JimmyK
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 21, 2013

Excellent, varied climb. I think the rating listed on the topo for each pitch is accurate. Pitch 2-Excellent crack/layback, P3-Awesome roof, P4-Exposed face climbing, then short off-width, P5-Fun chimney. Stay left after the P5 chimney to the top anchors. Scramble up to cool summit. Anchors are well-thought out, (the first 3 raps requiring almost all of the single 70m rope). Loose rock at the P4 tree anchor belay station. We used the hand-made topo on MP and found the start of the route with no problems in 1 hour, 15 minutes. Great winter route. With the exception of P1, we had sun all day. 3.5 stars.
By sepe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 29, 2013

This probably goes without saying, but if you've chopped your 70M at all (even one meter) you should bring two ropes. The raps are perfectly spaced for 70M, so if you're short you will be short!

Great climbing.
By Ryan Z
Feb 2, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Good route for the colder days. It was in the sun all morning for us. 3rd pitch is wild! really fun. The topo says double rack. But singles of .3-3 and a set of nuts is really all you need.
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

So freakin' great, I'd give it a classic status, amazing, beautiful, backcountry, and encompasses everything you could want out of a climb!!!! Great route, I'm so happy it exists, this will be a highlight of my year, good job guys on the F.A. of this :-) :-) !!!!

Dave, I met you in the Grand Canyon on the day of the government shutdown, I was going in to canyoneer Garden Creek with some friends ~ you told me about this route and that it was good, THANK YOU (you were right)!!!!!!!
By Nick Dolhyj 1
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 2, 2015

any gear beta for the pitch 2 variation?
By Wendel
Apr 21, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

The approach is no fun at all. Not exceptionally strenuous but a lot of bushwacking, prickly pear galore, and bees. Towards the end I'm sure we got off whatever the original route was, the first pitch was too overgrown to bother with- that and the approach took over 2 hours. The more direct ways of getting there were impassible with overgrowth. So lots of loose rock scrambles, a few unprotected 20ft climbs with packs on, and prickers in your legs, didn't make for the best start of the day. The views were nice though.

P1- bypassed- overgrown
P2- 5.9 but pretty pumpy. Mostly lie back.
P3- 5.9d/10a A bolt would be nice as soon as you step down onto the ledge. Less important for leader, as you can clip the rope in a directional off the anchor, but seconding if you slip you're taking a big swing, and it may not be so easy to traverse back over to the chimney. That being said, the ledge is easy. The chimney was fun, and getting over the ceiling is cool.
P4- 10a Not a bad face climb with crimps and flakes. Definitely should add a bolt right around the corner. The first bolt is not hard to get to, but it's definitely an R/X rated fall if you mess up before that- and considering I pulled a right hand flake clean off the move after clipping, it's possible.
P5- bypassed, ran out of daylight. If rappelling, rappel off far side. Not a clean rope pull the other way.

Not terribly upset about the whole day. Nothing very dynamic. The chimney was by far the best part. It's an experience, but I'll definitely never go back. No one in the party loved it.
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