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2 for 1s at Indian Creek
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By Josh Ewing
From Bluff, UT
Jan 15, 2013
1200 year old petroglyph near Valley of the Gods.

Yes...I know it's cold. But as soon as the daytime temps get above freezing, I'm planning on heading up to get back in shape. (There ain't no gym in Bluff!)

Anyhow, my crack-jumar skills are lacking, so my rope soloing is still pretty slow. So, I'm trying to think of ways to maximize my bang for my rope-soloing buck.

Can you think of routes that fit the following criteria and are on walls that are sunny for at least 4-5 hours a day.

1: Good easy-to-aid lines that yield a double (or even triple) top rope for mini-traxion action. Ideally, at least one of the lines would yield some 5.12 or at least 11+ climbing. For example, the Cube Steaks / Family Home Night combo would be great, if either of them were a straightforward aid solo.

2. Another option, although less attractive, is finding really long lines that are easy to aid and have a good variety of gear. Although I have a decent desert rack, I don't have a ton of pieces bigger than a 1 Camelot (i.e. lots of finger gear, but only triples or so in hands and up).

3. Hard lines with some variety to the gear. For example, I'm thinking I might be able to get up Optimator with my rack, but it's a stretch. What are the 12+ or 13- lines that aren't all the same size?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Jan 15, 2013
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

Here ya go..

www.mountainproject.com/v/utah--intermountain-partners/10508>>>


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By Rafael Rovirosa
From Las Cruces, NM
Jan 15, 2013

You can definitely aid any line in IC with just 3 cams of every size and always have 2 pieces in. Just bump one at a time.


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By Wally
From Denver
Jan 16, 2013

Josh - my thoughts are that aiding Indian Creek free lines isn't cool. Rock is too fragile for aiding.

Wally


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By ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Jan 16, 2013
Aesthetics

I bet Josh is a big enough boy to be able to aid responsibly.


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By Josh Ewing
From Bluff, UT
Jan 16, 2013
1200 year old petroglyph near Valley of the Gods.

Marc: Yeah...I've been on Mountain Project before. Doubt an internet post is going to score me a partner this time of year!


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By Josh Ewing
From Bluff, UT
Jan 16, 2013
1200 year old petroglyph near Valley of the Gods.

Turd: Thanks for the suggestions. I didn't have my guide with me on the east coast (slumming with the in-laws) and I was blanking on the obvious suggestions you brought up. I've never tried to get to the Polygrip anchors from Rock Lobster..but it's probably doable. Not sure I have enough thin hands for Bad Cat...but that would be good...as I haven't sent that one yet. Winner Takes All is another good idea..haven't been on that one yet...and the variety would be great. Thanks again.


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By tom mahr
From s. lake
Jan 16, 2013
just playing

psst,I wouldnt share with the world but look up trail of tears not well known. but might be just what you're looking for. hint in moab


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By Josh Ewing
From Bluff, UT
Jan 16, 2013
1200 year old petroglyph near Valley of the Gods.

Wally: I share your concern for the future of IC rock, so thanks for the candid response. In all honestly, the way I rationalize my tactics is the following:

1. My careful aiding can't be nearly as hard on the cracks as the "leading," "hang dogging," and tape-induced sloppy climbing I see at the crags.

2. I only aid a few lines in the winter time, when partners are very hard (or impossible) to find.

3. I replace anchors and work on trails at the Creek to make up for my bad behavior.

With all that said, you have me thinking. I should probably just go aid up some of the FA lines I've scouted int he desert. That way I get anchors in and am aiding on rock that will likely only see a handful of ascents in the next decade. More hiking and cardio training that way...


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By Josh Ewing
From Bluff, UT
Jan 16, 2013
1200 year old petroglyph near Valley of the Gods.

Been on Trail of Tears in North Wash. Certainly on my life list, but the second pitch is my hardest size....I'm weak on fingers with no feet. Hoping to be in good enough shape to work on it this fall...but for now...that's a bit hard. Gotta stick to the 13s with feet (e.g. Tricks, Optimator...that sort of thing).


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By Wally
From Denver
Jan 17, 2013

Josh - cool! And thanks for your work on trails and anchor replacement! Climb on. Wally


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