Mountain Project: Climbing Cannon Cliff

This area as I'm outlining it is the area right of the Black Dike and left of the big wall VMC area.
There are many fun routes here climbing corners, cracks and aretes some short like Sticky Fingers some quite long like Sam's Swan Song.

Getting There

hike the Whitney-Gillman trail or the Moby Grape trail and make your way along the cliff base.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for 2. Duet Area etc:

Sam's Swan Song 5.7 PG13 Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III

Duet 5.7 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 260 feet, Grade II

Lightning Crack 5.7 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150 feet

Jawbreaker 5.7 A3-4 Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Add Libs 5.7+ PG13 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 140 feet

Sinister Satisfaction 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150 feet

Slow and Easy 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Rock Candy 5.8 R Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Shadey Grove (unfinished) 5.8 X Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II

All Day Sucker 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Raven Crack 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II

The British Were Coming 5.9 PG13 Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III

Sticky Fingers 5.10 Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 100 feet

Rodan 5.10c Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II

Continuation of Rock Candy 5.10c A0 PG13 Trad, Aid, Alpine, 2 pitches, 250 feet

Duet Direct 5.10+ Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200 feet

Condemned Man 5.11 X Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Sextet 5.11c C0 Trad, Aid, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III

Dreamin' 5.12 Trad, Sport, TR, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Fall from Grace 5.12 Trad, Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150 feet

Comments on 2. Duet Area etc

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By bradley white
From: Rumney, N.H.
May 27, 2012

The area is very unsorted. From right or north to left I'm presenting the best to my knowledge, the order of the climbs are; Psyche Dike right or north of Moby Grape.
left of big wall Sinister Satisfaction on Sam's Swan Song Buttress, going left now Lightning Crack is a variation to Sam's Swan Song (Sam's goes up the left facing inside corner right and not this crack), Above this pitch is the original start to Hierphant Tower and left of that Sam's Ghost. Next starting on the ground far left of Sam's is Rodan, Sticky Fingers, Slow and Easy, Above Slow and Easy is Raven Crack, Starting on the ground is Sextet, Duet Buttress, Above first pitch of Duet is Duet Direct, left from Duet starting on the ground is Dreamin, Pop-Sick-Hill, Rock Candy to Continuation of Rock Candy, right of Continuation of Rock Candy is Jaw Breaker.
Starting on the ground left of Quartet Dike is; All Day Sucker, British Were Coming, Sayonara, Add Lib's, The Light Brigade, Shady Grove, and lastly the White and Young Route.
I don't know where the Condemned Man Route is.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 21, 2012

Thanks Bradley. This sounds like a job for Lee or Jay, as I am not familiar enough with Cannon. I think it has been at least 25 years since I climbed Duet Direct. Before I retire from new routing I want to put up at least one good pitch on Cannon though. I need to up my aid soloing skills first.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 22, 2012

im with mark on this, i'd trust your line up... just type it up as a neat list
1
2
3
4
5
etc
and id be happy to fix it up then delete out discussion here

By Michael Z.
From: Campton, NH
Sep 28, 2012

Delete away!

From Left to Right, as far as I can tell.

Psyche Dike... is north, right of Moby Grape

1.White and Young Route
2.Shady Grove
3.The Light Brigade
4.Add Lib's
5.Sayonara
6.The British Were Coming
7.All Day Sucker
8.Continuation of Rock Candy
9.Jaw Breaker
10.Rock Candy
11.Pop-Sick-Hill
12.Dreamin
13.Duet Direct
14.Duet
15.Sextet
16.Raven Crack
17.Slow & Easy
18.Sticky Fingers
19.Rodan 5.11
20.Sam's Ghost
21.Lightning Crack
22.Condemned Man
23.Fall From Grace
24.Sinister Satisfaction

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 28, 2012

thanks dude :)

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 28, 2012

Thanks, Mike...a big help. Lee, I got most of the two areas sorted, but left two routes for you.

Do you think we should put numbers in front of the area names so they will show in order in the main Cannon area list or just leave them alphabetical?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 28, 2012

yeah numbers makes sense... good call... i took care of it

By Michael Z.
From: Campton, NH
Sep 28, 2012

Nice happy to help.

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2. Duet Area etc

Description

Getting There

The Classics