Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
2 Days in Eldo route suggestions
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Jun 1, 2014

Passing through, it seems like every route is a "mega classic"
If you had two days, what routes would you do. They don't have to be really hard, just something to really get a taste.

Thanks!


FLAG
By Jeff G.
From Fort Collins
Jun 1, 2014
Nearing the end of Thank God Ledge.

A day on the Bastille is nice this time of year.
My favorite is the "Direct North Face". (Wide Country to XM to Outer Space) Amazing!
A very good taste of Eldo on all of those pitches.


FLAG
By doug rouse
From Denver, CO.
Jun 1, 2014

Big place with tons of good climbing..5.7-Bastille Crack, Rewritten, 5.8-Long John Wall, Ruper, 5.9 Yellow Spur, Anthill Direct, 5.10-Rosy Crucifixion, Outer space, Super Slab, 5.11 D.N.F. Bastille, Naked Edge, Aerospace.


FLAG
By notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Jun 1, 2014

Thanks!

I think my wife and I will do Bastille, Yellow Spur, Naked Edge, and the 1st Flatiron for the tour de classics assuming I can get up Naked Edge and it doesn't rain too much.


FLAG
By Justin Compton
From Longmont, CO
Jun 1, 2014
Bonnie's Roof

Hair City!


FLAG
By Greg D
From Here
Jun 2, 2014
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />

What time of year and what difficulty could really help narrow it down.


FLAG
By slim
Administrator
Jun 2, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

definitely agree w/ greg d. if you will be there in the summertime, the south facing stuff can be pretty hot.


FLAG
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Jun 2, 2014
El Chorro

I spent a day in Eldo on the way out west one year. We climbed Yellow Spur and then Rosy Crucifixion. Not sure we could have done better for a single day without a guidebook.


FLAG
 
By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Jun 2, 2014
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

doug rouse wrote:
Big place with tons of good climbing..5.7-Bastille Crack, Rewritten, 5.8-Long John Wall, Ruper, 5.9 Yellow Spur, Anthill Direct, 5.10-Rosy Crucifixion, Outer space, Super Slab, 5.11 D.N.F. Bastille, Naked Edge, Aerospace.


If you are more than competent enough to do harder grades, skip the Bastille Crack. It's not all that and it's polished and crowded. I've had a helmet dropped off of it onto me before (OK, close - I ducked).
If you insist on climbing more or less there, move over 1 route left and do Werk's Up (5.9) to March Of Dimes (5.10c) or one route right to do Outer Space (10b) Shoot, go a little further right (around the corner to the W. face for AM shade) and do Rain (10d, PG), Hair City (5.9+, PG) or Blind Faith (10a, as a single 60m pitch). Yer' agonna be bored and mobbed and wonder what all the talk about the Bastille Crack was about if you waste your limited time on that. Sorry, but that's my opinion.

Or do Green Spur (5.9, III), which is as good as Yellow Spur(5.10b, III). If you have spare time that day, Hit Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c, I) as a bonus pitch. It's only 50' away and can be run as a single 60M pitch if you are cool with your head, your gear, and using some longer runners in a few spots.

Long John is similarly over-rated/popularized. Skip it and do something more worthy. If Gambit (5.8 also, III) is open by then, that's a superior route at the same grade with some potential 5.10 variation pitches that you can hit (or harder - IE Tiger Balm) that are pretty cool. Gambit has gained popularity in the last several years, but if you start early, it is going to be good. For a harder option on the W Ridge, and of excellent quality consider doing Xanadu to Whiplash (10a to 10b), or better yet ling up Practice Wall to Muscle and Hate, (11a, 11a, 10d).

The rest of what you suggested are good routes though. Other options that come to mind:
Tagger (Not R, since small gear was invented)
Green Spur
T2 (10d) or for an adventure, Shasta (10b? R)
Psychosis to the direct roof finish (10d, III, PG) The 10d roof pitch is juggy and mellow for a steep crack climber)
Art's Spar to Alice in Bucket Land (5.8+, PG) or to Body Tremors (5.8+, PG) or to Serpent (5.10b, w/5.9 R).
Don't completely rule out The Diving Board (11a) if you are OK on slightly wider stuff for a few moves. It's mostly actually dihedral climbing and protects well enough.

Challenge route (TR if needed):
Bo Diddley (5.11c, R) - one of the best single pitches around. Warm up on Dreams Of Light (10a) and Dreams Of Darkness (5.9) or hang a TR from Good Cleavage (5.9) since this is only a single pitch. Promise you'll love it.


FLAG
By notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Jun 2, 2014

Wow thanks!
I'll be there in a week. 11b is my tweaky/weird limit for not aiding up half the pitch and sucking it up between crappy gear


FLAG
By doug rouse
From Denver, CO.
Jun 9, 2014

Ummm Art's Spar..forgot about that one..Do that one for sure!


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.