2 bolt anchor

Whats your 'go to' when you have two bolts to build an anchor. For some reason I always use the Quad. Interested to hear what others instinctively use.

Jake Jones wrote:Two quickdraws.

Jake Jones wrote:Two quickdraws.

I've put lockers on a pair of draws for 2-bolt anchors.
I had a scare when I went to clean an anchor that 5 of my beginner friends had just toproped on, and I found one of the draws nose-hooked.
My locking draws are overkill, but they make it harder to make the same mistake again.

For multi-pitch I often tie either a double 8 on a bight or 2 clove hitches with the rope, then belay off a masterpoint below. Depending on the situation I might leave a long tether & clove in short.

Two quickdraws. If partner(s) are going to lead.

If a gang TR is to commence, two alpine draws... one with lockers.

I am amazed at some of the set ups I see.....

I like my quad too, seems to work pretty well in most situations.

Forgive my ignorance, but what is this`quad`you speak of?

I'm a fan of a pre-set sliding X with limiter knots. Super fast to set up/break down.

Quad: seekingexposure.com/meet-th…

I personally think it's overkill.

For slingshot TR, two draws, preferably one locking. If they are both non-locking try to set them at different heights (if there is chain) so that they don't interfere. I once came up to a two draw anchor to find that both rope-end biners had caught against each other and opened the gates.

For multi or top belay with chains, clip a draw between the bolts, clove to one chain, belay off the other. This is a variation on the banshee belay.

For multi or top belay with no chains, double length sling with masterpoint.

Sliding X is second for me. Here is the quad. I agree it may be overkill, which is why I might be asking this question, but it is quick to set up.

Never heard of the quad anchor, but it doesn't look incredibly redundant. We've got 2 draws with 2 lockers each. A little overkill, but if/when I get hurt climbing, I'll be damned if it's because of a sport anchor.

I haven't used the quad yet, but then again I haven't lead multi pitch yet. So when trading leads on a single pitch if the bolts are nice and relatively even I'll just use two draws.

TR and otherwise: lockers on bolts, an appropriately sized sling or two and a figure 8, alternatively replace sling with cord, still figure 8 because it unties easier.

Single pitch: quad. I like it, I have a cordelette tied into a quad and just leave it tied.
Multipitch: slings and lockers with an X.

I use two draws for single pitch. One draw has wire gates the other has lockers.

For multi I use a cordlette. I use the rope when swinging leads. Sometimes I use a sliding x and limiters

A partner uses a super long dyneema sling and ties a figure 8. I would like to try that out.

mediocre wrote:Never heard of the quad anchor, but it doesn't look incredibly redundant. We've got 2 draws with 2 lockers each. A little overkill, but if/when I get hurt climbing, I'll be damned if it's because of a sport anchor.

Mike Marmar wrote:For slingshot TR, two draws, preferably one locking. If they are both non-locking try to set them at different heights (if there is chain) so that they don't interfere. I once came up to a two draw anchor to find that both rope-end biners had caught against each other and opened the gates. For multi or top belay with chains, clip a draw between the bolts, clove to one chain, belay off the other. This is a variation on the banshee belay. For multi or top belay with no chains, double length sling with masterpoint.

BTW, the answer to the OP depends on the situation. multipitch trad, cordlette or rope if swinging leads. Multipitch sport, draws or rope depending on if swing leads or in blocks

I was going to leave that one alone, but yeah, it's pretty darn redundant.

Single pitch: two draws

Single pitch TR: two draws plus rope clipped into a draw on the final bolt

Multi-pitch: lockers with two slings with sliding x master point, clove into master point.(nylon not Dyneema slings)

I usually just use a long sling with an overhand at the master point. Fast and simple, but it doesn't seem to be a popular option. Is there a reason why?

I'll chime in, because I really like this method. I use this when we plan to TR a route, or otherwise want to be super-safe.

2 Alpine Draws, 2 Lockers

Put an alpine draw on each hanger. Undo the rope end biner and attach to hanger as well, opposite/ opposed other biner. Now add a locker to each alpine draw.

So now you have opposite opposed non-lockers on each bolt hanger, and 2 locking biners on the rope. When you lock everything up make sure both locking biners goes through both slings.