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The 1st Middle Buttress is comprised of 4 separate pinnacles that span the north side of the canyon from the floor to the rim. Though not much is published about the history of climbing on these pinnacles lots of multi-pitch route potential exists. From the Canyon floor to the canyon rim, it is probably about a 2000 foot elevation gain. The rocks on this side of the canyon face south, getting plenty of sun.
From the gate on Cheyenne Boulevard (this is the park entrance, where the road turns into North Cheyenne Canyon Road), drive .85 miles to an obvious pullout on the right (west) side of the road. The 1st through the 4th pinnacle of the 1st Middle Buttress are above the pullout to the northeast.
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Featured Route For 1st Middle Buttress
South Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b CO : Colorado Springs : ... : 1st Middle Buttress
The South Ridge of the 1st Middle Buttress ascends the arete, as closely as possible, of the four pinnacles comprising the 1st Middle Buttress of North Cheyenne Canyon. Though lots of loose climbing is encountered, it is a very long climb, probably close to 2000 feet of vertical elevation gain. Being so close to Colorado Springs, this is a wonderful scrambling route to catch on a summer evening after work and damn good training. If you don't mind a little choss, this route gets three stars fo...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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