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1st Middle Buttress

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1st Middle Buttress  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Julian Smith on May 20, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Shows the majority of the 1st Middle Buttress from...

Description 

The 1st Middle Buttress is comprised of 4 separate pinnacles that span the north side of the canyon from the floor to the rim. Though not much is published about the history of climbing on these pinnacles lots of multi-pitch route potential exists. From the Canyon floor to the canyon rim, it is probably about a 2000 foot elevation gain. The rocks on this side of the canyon face south, getting plenty of sun.

Getting There 

From the gate on Cheyenne Boulevard (this is the park entrance, where the road turns into North Cheyenne Canyon Road), drive .85 miles to an obvious pullout on the right (west) side of the road. The 1st through the 4th pinnacle of the 1st Middle Buttress are above the pullout to the northeast.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.9 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For 1st Middle Buttress
This is taken from the top of the 2nd pitch of the Army Route (Pinnacle).  Can anyone confirm if this is the 1st middle buttress or if I"m off by one?  (I believe this south, south-west of the pinnacle which makes me think i got it wrong)

South Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  CO : Colorado Springs : ... : 1st Middle Buttress
The South Ridge of the 1st Middle Buttress ascends the arete, as closely as possible, of the four pinnacles comprising the 1st Middle Buttress of North Cheyenne Canyon. Though lots of loose climbing is encountered, it is a very long climb, probably close to 2000 feet of vertical elevation gain. Being so close to Colorado Springs, this is a wonderful scrambling route to catch on a summer evening after work and damn good training. If you don't mind a little choss, this route gets three stars fo...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of 1st Middle Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
A closer look at the bottom section
BETA PHOTO: A closer look at the bottom section
A picture showing the upper section
BETA PHOTO: A picture showing the upper section

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