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I first noticed this crag heading back to Canon after a day of cragging at Tanner Dome. This crag is easy to miss heading south on Oak Cr. Grade. There are a fraction of the routes on 1st Bend as there are at West Bend, but the climbing and rock quality are much better. The crag receives little direct sunlight and is best for spring, summer, and fall climbing.
Park in the same spot for the West Bend Crags, but instead walk North on Oak Creek Grade Road and a big roof crack will come into view, this is 1st Bend Crag. There is a huge spruce tree on the left next to the road and below the crag, this is the best place to make your move towards the crag. Bushwhack up the hill to a short 4th class section and a comfortable ledge. The approach time is about 5 minutes.
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Featured Route For 1st Bend Crag
Start out by climbing a water polished face past 4 bolts to a crack system, get a good rest, continue up a hand crack to where it starts thinning down to fingers, undercling to a layback section, and fire your way up the crack to a good rest. The crack ends, then face climb past 1 more bolt and to the anchors. The crux is in the bolted line, but if you're new to the crack game, the undercling/layback section might feel harder. I first climbed this 4 years ago and remember there being ball bea...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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