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19th Nervous Breakdown 
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Unknown but the Original Route 
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19th Nervous Breakdown 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rich Thompson,Steve Grossmann,'77
Page Views: 378
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Feb 25, 2009
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Jim Scott before he caused the rest of us to have ...

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Description 

A classic old school route done before sticky rubber. This climb has a slightly awkward start with good pro up to a fixed pin. Laybacking and stemming on less than positive holds and getting pro in make it an adventure. One of the old fixed pins is gone and you will need a 0 cam unit or grooved stoppers to protect moves about a body length above the fixed pin.


Location 

Drop down from the pullout and walk along the base of the retaining wall to the top of the cliff about 100 yards. Rap in from anchors at the top or walk down on the down road end. We had two ropes and set one up for rappelling in.


Protection 

Light rack to green or yellow camalot with stoppers and a 0 micro cam being really helpful. Better yet bring your fearless brain and don't fall.



Photos of 19th Nervous Breakdown Slideshow Add Photo
Jim Scott past the scary part.  If we had a 0 cam it would not have been so spooky to watch or lead.
Jim Scott past the scary part. If we had a 0 cam ...
Just before the last interesting moves protected with a nice fat bolt.
Just before the last interesting moves protected w...
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