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1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.2 from 5
votes
Routes in West Slabs
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1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hwan Kap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left-facing Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shaft, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tin Can Arete T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown 2nd 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown 5 T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown 7+ T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown 9+ T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | George Bracksieck and Cathy Mallow |
| Page Views: | 2,658 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | George Bracksieck on Jul 26, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a climb I led in 10/21/78. It is located on the right side of the rock and begins on the ground, just left of an obvious, short, two-tiered, left-facing dihedral that has a consistently hand-sized crack. (See the photo posted for "Left-Facing Dihedral.")
Climb up blobby rock, with no pro, angling right to meet the exit of "Left-Facing Dihedral." Belay on the big, grassy ledge about 40 feet up.
Climb straight up lower-angled, featured terrain, then angle right to the top of the big, HIGH left-facing dihedral. We belayed at a small (but not tiny) conifer on a ledge. This route crosses Unknown 9+ here. That route's bolted station lies to the left of the tree, but it isn't useful to belay the short, steep top section of the HIGH left-facing dihedral.
Climb the short, crux left-facing dihedral (bomber medium stopper and hex placements, or an unnecessary new bolt; old-school 5.7, if dry) to a big ledge, then continue to the top of the cliff. We walked off, although there is now a bolted anchor.
Climb up blobby rock, with no pro, angling right to meet the exit of "Left-Facing Dihedral." Belay on the big, grassy ledge about 40 feet up.
Climb straight up lower-angled, featured terrain, then angle right to the top of the big, HIGH left-facing dihedral. We belayed at a small (but not tiny) conifer on a ledge. This route crosses Unknown 9+ here. That route's bolted station lies to the left of the tree, but it isn't useful to belay the short, steep top section of the HIGH left-facing dihedral.
Climb the short, crux left-facing dihedral (bomber medium stopper and hex placements, or an unnecessary new bolt; old-school 5.7, if dry) to a big ledge, then continue to the top of the cliff. We walked off, although there is now a bolted anchor.
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