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Warren Teissier on the upper part of the 1911 Gull...
|Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>|
This "adventure route" is not recommended (unless you are looking for adventure). At least you will not have to wait in line. The best time of year to do this route is late fall or winter, when the poison ivy and ferns have been killed by frost. However, the middle section of the gully holds snow well and an ice axe may be needed if it has snowed a lot recently. In fact, under the right conditions this section of the route is an exciting ski descent just minutes from downtown Boulder.
This the the first major gully left of the main East Face of the 3rd, it separates the main East Face from the pinnacle known as Queen Anne's Head. Approach as for East Face Left, and walk a few hundred feet south. The base of the gully is wide and slabby and it's not obvious where to start. The easiest start is a crack system near the south side, only 40' from Queen Anne's Head. Do a short pitch (or free solo) up this crack system, then unrope and climb through a hole under a chockstone to emerge in the main gully.
Climb up the main gully, which is bushwhacking interspersed with ~5.2 boulder problems. Soon you will enter the main gully, thrash up the ferns and ivy a few hundred feet to a slab making the start of the final chimney. Go home now unless you were planning on doing some rock climbing.
The upper chimney can be climbed in 2 long piches with a 60m rope. The rock is reasonably clean and the climbing interesting, and this climb had almost built up to one star until we ran into a 15' streak of pigeon shit we had to climb past. The climb ends at the notch of the SE Chimney, and you can either continue with that route or downclimb it. There is also an eye-bolt just north of the notch that you can rappel (west) from.
Supposedly, the date 1911 is engraved in the rock near the top of the chimney, but we did not see it.
Addendum: From J. Haas, "The name stems from a party finding "1911" engraved on a stone, similar to the slated stones in Indian Creek, at the top of the chimney. The engraved stone has been "missing" for several decades."
Standard Flatiron rack.
Warren Teissier leading the upper part of the 1911...
Bill Wright makes a jump turn in the 1911 Gully. ...
Lower part of the gully.
Looking down from the top.
This thing is fun and s...
|By Warren Teissier|
Nov 13, 2001
George, you forgot the part about "crawling on bat guano" under some boulders before entering the gully. All in all, a stylin' route....
Oct 8, 2005
This route is best combined with a climb to the summit of Queen Anne's Head. From the bottom of the rappel, scramble up 50 feet of ferns to the start of the rock in the 1911 Gully.
|By Dave J|
Sep 1, 2006
Does anyone know where the "1911" carving is suppose to be? I climbed this route last night and couldn't find it anywhere.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 6, 2006
In Rossiter's old guide "Boulder Climbs North" you will find "... the date 1911 is engraved in the rock near the top of the chimney." However, in the more recent edition "Rock Climbing the Flatirons", this comment was removed. I perused Gerry Roach's guide and also the Pat Ament/Cleve McCarthy guide, but could find no other reference to the supposed engraving. Perhaps it has worn off, I have never found it either.
|By Mic Fairchild|
Aug 14, 2011
Did this after an ascent of QAH and found it enjoyable, if a bit awkward with a pack. Minimal thrashing from the QAH rapp to the start of the chimney and good climbing thereafter. Saw some rock scratches but no '1911'.
|By Andy Weinmann|
From: Alexandria, VA
Sep 13, 2011
I did this as a downclimb after soloing the East Face. Ugh. I missed the turn for the chimney on Slip-Slide Ledge and ended up going down this. Thought all was good when I got to the ferns...damn was I wrong. Hop-stepping over poison ivy and then found another section of rock to downclimb. Agree that this would be an adventure climb going up and should only be done in fall/winter.
|By Jim VanO|
Jun 10, 2012
We are going to 1911 Gully in 2 weeks and will get a better description of where the carved rock is. My wife's grandfather and grandmother (MGS, FGS) carved the rock in 1911. Only have family description passed down of how to find it.
|By Mark Roth|
Jun 10, 2012
Jim, Don't forget about the raptor closure....
|By Jim VanO|
Jun 27, 2012
Mark, thankfully they opened that area according to Parks and Open Space. Got up there the day fire started. Didn't find them. Initials supposed to be about 2-3" high. MSG and FGM then 1911. Supposed to be on front surface of Flatiron, and MSG took his kids up one at a time because too narrow and dangerous for more than one. Used chisel so would not wear away and in place where wouldn't get covered by rockfall.
Access from top of chimney his daughter thinks but not totally sure. Looking for old photo she has. If park opens, we may try again tomorrow.
Aug 17, 2012
How long of a section is skiable? If we have a decent winter, it seems like it might be a fun afternoon, right outside of town. Are there any other nearby ski routes in the Flatirons?