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14er ice routes
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By Paul-B
Dec 12, 2012
Flakes of Wrath

I am in the process of trying to climb all the 14ers, in a more exciting way than the summer standard route joy hike to the top. I am hoping to knock out a couple over winter break, preferably on some ice routes. I was wondering if anybody had suggestions of good ice routes in the San Juans or Sangres that would be in right now.

From what I hear, the San Juans have gotten a fair bit of snow in the last couple of snows, from a couple of trip reports I've seen, the Sangres or Southern San Juans might be a better choice.


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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Dec 15, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my "Bourne Identity" style reboot of The Eiger Sanction. This was from the rough draft's first act.

Bump


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By john strand
From southern colo
Dec 15, 2012

I live directly across from the Blanca group and they have got a fair amount of snow. The north side is real hard to see, but it's been snowing for a while now and for sure will be iced up


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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 16, 2012
Andrew Gram

For the most part, winter climbing on 14ers is more about finding routes that are safe from avalanche danger, which can be considerable - especially in the San Juans. Ice and steep snow climbing on high peaks is more often done in late spring/early summer when couloirs have stabilized and consolidated.


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By clay meier
Dec 16, 2012
Thats Me

I agree with Andy but can anyone suggest cool routes for the spring? I want to climb not snow slog a coulior...


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By Jesse Morehouse
From CO
Dec 16, 2012
This is why...

Speaking in reference to the Sangres, the 14ers arent conducive to many ice routes. There are some documented HERE and while there may be others, Ive heard of mostly snow climbs. There are other 14ers in the state that are more likely to have ice on or near them.

Like Andrew and Clay said, avy danger in the winter is pretty significant in the winter, spring is definitely the time to climb ice there. Look at the dates of the FA on one of the routes in the link- June!.


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By Paul-B
Dec 16, 2012
Flakes of Wrath

I appreciate the responses. I have done a lot of winter snow slogs/skis on 14ers, and I am very avy aware/prepared. I was hoping to find some ice routes, for a change of pace. I was hoping the lack if snow this winter would prolong the avy safe season, but that's starting to come to an end.


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By john strand
From southern colo
Dec 16, 2012

How about the Crestone group ?


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By Tom Pierce
From Englewood, CO
Dec 16, 2012

You might get more ideas from www.14ers.com, but some that come to mind are:

1) Alexanders Chimney (generally a fall climb, but not really a summit route unless you combine it with Keiners, etc.) and the Notch Couloir (spring, accessed by Keiners) on Longs Peak.

2) Snake Couloir on Sneffels (spring)

3) North Central Couloir on Sneffels (fall?)

4) Have heard rumors of ice routes on Antero (Sword of Damocles) and Pyramid (near the NW Ridge) but have only read cryptic comments about those.

Good luck,
-Tom


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By r.f
From colorado springs
Dec 26, 2012

Not a "true" climb to the summit of Pikes but Total Abandation and Blind Ambition are both ice/mixed routes


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