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> Bee Gorge N Wall
14: Pingheng ("Balance")
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Bee Gorge North Wall
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14: Pingheng ("Balance") S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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1: Fushi: Pumice T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A1-2 |
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21: Unnamed: ["From Choss to Stardom"] T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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2: Chayidian: "Kinda Poor" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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3: Unnamed [Sharp n Airy] S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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4: Unnamed ["Smile for the Camera... in the Shadow of the Great Wall"/SftC" T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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5: Digua: "Sweet Potato" T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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7: Banzhang: "Squad Leader" S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | CMDI, 2007 |
| Page Views: | 596 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Ryder Stroud on Jul 13, 2013 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Nate Ball |
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Description
A great, hard sport climb with the crux coming up high. This route will definitely test your endurance and sequencing.
Pull through a thin boulder problem immediately off the deck and maintain your focus to get to the first bolt if you are not stick clipping (still a bit scary until the second bolt).
The middle of the wall will let up a little bit in intensity, but not much. The top third of the route is the crux. Aim for a large triangular pocket beneath slightly slabbier terrain. Find an undercling and move right into the obvious corner (away from the bolt line--committing with pendulum potential) and continue on hard slab moves up to the anchor (doesnt let up from the pocket to the anchors).
Pull through a thin boulder problem immediately off the deck and maintain your focus to get to the first bolt if you are not stick clipping (still a bit scary until the second bolt).
The middle of the wall will let up a little bit in intensity, but not much. The top third of the route is the crux. Aim for a large triangular pocket beneath slightly slabbier terrain. Find an undercling and move right into the obvious corner (away from the bolt line--committing with pendulum potential) and continue on hard slab moves up to the anchor (doesnt let up from the pocket to the anchors).
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