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 ADVANCED
Farmington Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
137 lbs of Fury T 
Basket Case TR 
Batman Surprise TR 
Butt Crack T 
Cool Air T,TR 
Era of Tara, The T 
Every woman has her charm. TR 
Humble Beginnings T 
Klingon Arete TR 
Nano Pitch TR 
Repent Now or Die TR 
Ryan in a Bikini T,S 
Suck it Up Princess S 
Unsorted Routes:

137 lbs of Fury 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Erik Gillis, Janson Evans
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 279
Submitted By: Erik S. Gillis on Jun 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

spicy for sure. It is not 100 clean. We did it ground up style so the pro is sparse for the fist section. It is enjoyable face climbing that leads into a crack climb higher up. I will be up to clean it a little more. As I was doing the first section I was reminded of hard grit type routes. Don't try this climb unless you are comfortable with 5.8+, it could be an ankle buster or more.


Location 

It is to the right of Era of Tara, The, right next to butt crack. It is the arete there, but you stay on the left of the arete on the steep face. Reach the ledge and follow the crack on your left from there.


Protection 

standard rack. the first piece is a red metolius(or at least that is what i used) on the arete. Then there is none until you get to the ledge and the start the crack up above.



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