The first two pitches

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > Capitol Peak > Northwest Buttress (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

The first two pitches

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Extremely loose roof after fixed pin belay on saddle.

NW Buttress of Capital Peak.

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3.0 from 1 vote

Matt Juth

Sep 15, 2004

“The first two pitches”

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Nearby Photos

Chris Baldwin and I simulclimbing the amazing arête for hundreds of feet above Unicorn Spire on a fantastic September day, 2018.

A rough topo of the route. Dawson's 14er guide has a better detailed one.

The final section of the final pitch looking down into the valley.

Topo of pitches one and two. Disregard my awful msPaint skills. Also there aren't any fixed gear at the base of the chimney as far as I could tell, so save a couple of #2s.

Right after the second pitch, looking up at Unicorn Spire. We went around to the left side, easy climbing with few spots for gear.
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Photo by Joshua Kasumovic.

Summit photo with Joshua Kasumovic.

Chris Baldwin and I simulclimbing the upper headwall of Cap's NW Buttress.

View from Capitol Lake of the Northwest Buttress.

Luke Laeser working his way through the first pitch.

The ledge to the start of the climb.

Chris Baldwin and I on Cap's summit. Success up the NW Butt!

Looking into the wet, lower part of the second pitch chimney. Very loose rocks in here, so beware!

Roland heading up the 4th class ramp to get around to the right of Unicorn Pinnacle.

Use the large ledge to access the first pitches.

Extremely loose roof after fixed pin belay on saddle.

The first two pitches

NW Buttress of Capital Peak.

Aaron Taylor at the blast off ledge for pitch one.

Northwest Buttress of Capitol Peak, July 2003.

Chris Baldwin following pitch 1 of Cap's NW Buttress.

View down the Northwest Buttress of Capitol Peak

Overlooking Capitol Lake before the weather started rolling in on us.

On the summit.

Summiting.

Final 5.7 corner and small roof above. Roof has tons of loose blocks jammed in it. Very funky, but easy to step out right to avoid.

Looking down at Unicorn Pinnacle from the low 5th class slabs.

Flavor country on Capitol Peak.

View looking down from the top of the 2nd pitch.

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