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All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lum… > Roof Wall (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R)
Roof Wall, second pitch variation (10b s+): Climb the V-slot (9) to a stance in the corner. Climb a finger and hand crack on the right wall up to the roof (8). Place pro in the corner (hexes or 2"-3" cams), and traverse right under the roof to the arete (8). <br> <br> Place a ball nut or small wired nut, climb up 10 feet, and place a #2 Camalot in a shallow slot. Climb the face another 30' on small edges, angling up and left to a brown ramp (10b s+). Move left to the left-facing corner and belay.<br> <br> After the #2 Camalot, there is sustained 5.9-5.10 face climbing with no more protection for 30'-35' until you reach the belay. The #2 Camalot is in a cracked block, and may not hold a long fall.
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The V-slot on the second pitch. Tricky 5.9 climbing with insecure feet. My partner and I climbed it left side in, keeping all of the gear on the right side.
Roof Wall, showing the 10b s+ variation on the second pitch: Climb a hand and finger crack on the right wall. Place pro in the corner of the roof (hexes or 2"-3" cams) then traverse right under the roof to the arete. Place a ball nut or small brass nut, then climb up and place a #2 Camalot in a slot. Continue up the face on small edges, angling left to a brown ramp and the left-facing corner on the regular route.<br> <br> After placing the #2 Camalot, there is no more pro for the next 25 or 30 feet, with several 5.10 moves along the way.
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Ron Olsen
Oct 29, 2005
“Roof Wall, second pitch variation (10b s+): Climb the V-slot (9) to a stance in the corner. Climb a finger and hand crack on the right wall up to the roof (8). Place pro in the corner (hexes or 2"-3" cams), and traverse right under the roof to the arete (8).

Place a ball nut or small wired nut, climb up 10 feet, and place a #2 Camalot in a shallow slot. Climb the face another 30' on small edges, angling up and left to a brown ramp (10b s+). Move left to the left-facing corner and belay.

After the #2 Camalot, there is sustained 5.9-5.10 face climbing with no more protection for 30'-35' until you reach the belay. The #2 Camalot is in a cracked block, and may not hold a long fall.”  

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The second pitch variation viewed from above. Steep, fun, 5.9-5.10 face climbing with no pro for the last 30'.
The V-slot on the second pitch. Tricky 5.9 climbing with insecure feet. My partner and I climbed it left side in, keeping all of the gear on the right side.
Roof Wall, second pitch variation (10b s+): Climb the V-slot (9) to a stance in the corner. Climb a finger and hand crack on the right wall up to the roof (8). Place pro in the corner (hexes or 2"-3" cams), and traverse right under the roof to the arete (8). <br> <br> Place a ball nut or small wired nut, climb up 10 feet, and place a #2 Camalot in a shallow slot. Climb the face another 30' on small edges, angling up and left to a brown ramp (10b s+). Move left to the left-facing corner and belay.<br> <br> After the #2 Camalot, there is sustained 5.9-5.10 face climbing with no more protection for 30'-35' until you reach the belay. The #2 Camalot is in a cracked block, and may not hold a long fall.
Roof Wall, showing the 10b s+ variation on the second pitch: Climb a hand and finger crack on the right wall. Place pro in the corner of the roof (hexes or 2"-3" cams) then traverse right under the roof to the arete. Place a ball nut or small brass nut, then climb up and place a #2 Camalot in a slot. Continue up the face on small edges, angling left to a brown ramp and the left-facing corner on the regular route.<br> <br> After placing the #2 Camalot, there is no more pro for the next 25 or 30 feet, with several 5.10 moves along the way.
Roof Wall, upper pitches.<br> <br> Pitch 2, 5.9, 140'. From the belay on the rotten ledge, climb up to the prominent V-slot. Climb the slot (9) to a stance in the corner. Angle up left, then climb straight up over a series of roofs (9) and belay in a left-facing corner/gully just above.<br> <br> Pitch 3, 5.5, 80'. Climb the gully to the top. Be very careful of loose rock. There is a big tree 30' back from the top that you can use as a belay anchor.
Roof Wall, first pitch, 5.7, 150'.<br> <br> Start in a groove about 30' left of the Sunstar chimney. Climb the groove, then angle right up corners to a ledge with a tree. Climb to a rotten loose ramp and go left to a belay above a little tree. <br> <br> The V-slot on the second pitch is visible about 30' above the belay.<br> <br> A 10c variation goes up an obtuse corner to the tree on the belay ledge. <br> <br> Test all holds before you use them and try to keep the rope out of the loose rock on the rotten ramp.<br> <br>
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