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All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lum… > Roof Wall (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R)
Roof Wall, first pitch, 5.7, 150'.<br> <br> Start in a groove about 30' left of the Sunstar chimney. Climb the groove, then angle right up corners to a ledge with a tree. Climb to a rotten loose ramp and go left to a belay above a little tree. <br> <br> The V-slot on the second pitch is visible about 30' above the belay.<br> <br> A 10c variation goes up an obtuse corner to the tree on the belay ledge. <br> <br> Test all holds before you use them and try to keep the rope out of the loose rock on the rotten ramp.<br> <br>
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Roof Wall, upper pitches.<br> <br> Pitch 2, 5.9, 140'. From the belay on the rotten ledge, climb up to the prominent V-slot. Climb the slot (9) to a stance in the corner. Angle up left, then climb straight up over a series of roofs (9) and belay in a left-facing corner/gully just above.<br> <br> Pitch 3, 5.5, 80'. Climb the gully to the top. Be very careful of loose rock. There is a big tree 30' back from the top that you can use as a belay anchor.
The second pitch variation viewed from above. Steep, fun, 5.9-5.10 face climbing with no pro for the last 30'.
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Ron Olsen
Oct 29, 2005
“Roof Wall, first pitch, 5.7, 150'.

Start in a groove about 30' left of the Sunstar chimney. Climb the groove, then angle right up corners to a ledge with a tree. Climb to a rotten loose ramp and go left to a belay above a little tree.

The V-slot on the second pitch is visible about 30' above the belay.

A 10c variation goes up an obtuse corner to the tree on the belay ledge.

Test all holds before you use them and try to keep the rope out of the loose rock on the rotten ramp.

”  

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The second pitch variation viewed from above. Steep, fun, 5.9-5.10 face climbing with no pro for the last 30'.
The V-slot on the second pitch. Tricky 5.9 climbing with insecure feet. My partner and I climbed it left side in, keeping all of the gear on the right side.
Roof Wall, second pitch variation (10b s+): Climb the V-slot (9) to a stance in the corner. Climb a finger and hand crack on the right wall up to the roof (8). Place pro in the corner (hexes or 2"-3" cams), and traverse right under the roof to the arete (8). <br> <br> Place a ball nut or small wired nut, climb up 10 feet, and place a #2 Camalot in a shallow slot. Climb the face another 30' on small edges, angling up and left to a brown ramp (10b s+). Move left to the left-facing corner and belay.<br> <br> After the #2 Camalot, there is sustained 5.9-5.10 face climbing with no more protection for 30'-35' until you reach the belay. The #2 Camalot is in a cracked block, and may not hold a long fall.
Roof Wall, showing the 10b s+ variation on the second pitch: Climb a hand and finger crack on the right wall. Place pro in the corner of the roof (hexes or 2"-3" cams) then traverse right under the roof to the arete. Place a ball nut or small brass nut, then climb up and place a #2 Camalot in a slot. Continue up the face on small edges, angling left to a brown ramp and the left-facing corner on the regular route.<br> <br> After placing the #2 Camalot, there is no more pro for the next 25 or 30 feet, with several 5.10 moves along the way.
Roof Wall, upper pitches.<br> <br> Pitch 2, 5.9, 140'. From the belay on the rotten ledge, climb up to the prominent V-slot. Climb the slot (9) to a stance in the corner. Angle up left, then climb straight up over a series of roofs (9) and belay in a left-facing corner/gully just above.<br> <br> Pitch 3, 5.5, 80'. Climb the gully to the top. Be very careful of loose rock. There is a big tree 30' back from the top that you can use as a belay anchor.
Roof Wall, first pitch, 5.7, 150'.<br> <br> Start in a groove about 30' left of the Sunstar chimney. Climb the groove, then angle right up corners to a ledge with a tree. Climb to a rotten loose ramp and go left to a belay above a little tree. <br> <br> The V-slot on the second pitch is visible about 30' above the belay.<br> <br> A 10c variation goes up an obtuse corner to the tree on the belay ledge. <br> <br> Test all holds before you use them and try to keep the rope out of the loose rock on the rotten ramp.<br> <br>
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