Mountain Project Logo
Climb
MTB
Hike
Trailrun
Ski
All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Blob Rock Area > Blob Rock > Main Wall > Where Eagles Dare (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R)
Looking at the second crux which involves a few feet of precarious stemming and/or crimps for the hands. Luke stemmed straight up. I faced left with my back aggainst the right wall and walked my feet up the quartz dike. These moves are the crux for me. After this, step up right onto yet another slab and angle right to the 2-bolt anchor.
ID 1206586 · · Copyright Violation?
P2: Placing the marginal small cam in the horizontal is difficult with small feet and one-joint finger holds. Photo by Luke Clarke.
Luke on the real crux--moving up from the jug. There are a couple of ways to do this--Luke is stemming, I do it with right hip into the corner and both feet out left. You're leaving a good rest with a big jug and moving above small gear, both of which add subjective difficulty.
Rate Photo
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
  4.8 from 5 votes
Ivan Rezucha
Sep 24, 2005
“Looking at the second crux which involves a few feet of precarious stemming and/or crimps for the hands. Luke stemmed straight up. I faced left with my back aggainst the right wall and walked my feet up the quartz dike. These moves are the crux for me. After this, step up right onto yet another slab and angle right to the 2-bolt anchor.”  

1 Comment

Sort by: Oldest Drop down
Newest Oldest Popular
loading

Nearby Photos

Looking at the second crux which involves a few feet of precarious stemming and/or crimps for the hands. Luke stemmed straight up. I faced left with my back aggainst the right wall and walked my feet up the quartz dike. These moves are the crux for me. After this, step up right onto yet another slab and angle right to the 2-bolt anchor.
Luke on the real crux--moving up from the jug. There are a couple of ways to do this--Luke is stemming, I do it with right hip into the corner and both feet out left. You're leaving a good rest with a big jug and moving above small gear, both of which add subjective difficulty.
Kevin leading the 3rd pitch of Eagles. Great exposure immediately off the belay.
The crux corner on the first pitch is in the center of the photo.
The whole second pitch is shown by the rope line with a climber setting up on the belay ledge. The third pitch traverse and initial handcrack are highlighted in red for reference.
The start of Where Eagles Dare, with the bolts of Get Shorty highlighted for reference. The route line is approximate, so pick your own way up the slab and small roof.
A general topo of Where Eagles Dare, with the approximate pitch/belay locations marked.
Having finally regained his dignity, Luke is at the base of the hand crack, which is much easier and shorter than it looks from the ground. A double length sling on the block to Luke's left protects the final grovelling move.
New anchors on pitch one (by Josh LaMar).
Leading the second pitch of Where Eagles Dare. <br> <br> Photo by Kevin Gillest.
YAY! Topping out P3.
Luke's getting situated in the corner above the 1st crux. There are big but creaky holds where Luke's hands are, and, as of today, a good fixed nut at head level.

In This Photo
Luke Clarke
Golden
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started