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All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Mountain > Mickey Mouse Wall > Beagle's Ear (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c)
Lenny's moving into the corner on the 3rd pitch. There's some loose rock to deal with getting to this point.
ID 1206402 · · Copyright Violation?
Getting gear for the P3 9+ crux. The corner is steep and pretty blank with thin but adequate gear. Lenny stemmed it with not much of anything for feet and hands. I used a mono+ doigt (1+ tips) on the right face and high stepped.
I'm at what was for me the second crux. Getting past this left facing corner involved some tricky stemming and face moves. Above this is a hand crack overhang leading to fists and then wider, the official crux. Don't do what I did and place your only big piece (#4 Camalot) in the pod below the hand crack. The first crux for me was the right facing corner at the bottom of the photo. A perfect hand crack ends, and then what? It took me many ups and downs to determine that.<br> <br> Photo by Lenny Miller.
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Ivan Rezucha
Sep 6, 2005
“Lenny's moving into the corner on the 3rd pitch. There's some loose rock to deal with getting to this point.”  

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Nearby Photos

Unknown climber on the crux.
The route climbs the right- and then left-facing corners at the center of the photo. It starts [from] the ledge visible above the smaller trees at the bottom left of the photo. This wall of Mickey Mouse is known as The Shield. Lifestream 11a is the arete to [the] left of Beagle's Ear. The large left facing corner left of that (not visible) is Eagle's Bier 5.9. Just left of Beagle's Ear is Zen Effects 12b. Right of Beagle's Ear in the photo are at least 2 other routes whose names I don't recall.
Getting gear for the P3 9+ crux. The corner is steep and pretty blank with thin but adequate gear. Lenny stemmed it with not much of anything for feet and hands. I used a mono+ doigt (1+ tips) on the right face and high stepped.
Lenny's moving into the corner on the 3rd pitch. There's some loose rock to deal with getting to this point.
I'm at what was for me the second crux. Getting past this left facing corner involved some tricky stemming and face moves. Above this is a hand crack overhang leading to fists and then wider, the official crux. Don't do what I did and place your only big piece (#4 Camalot) in the pod below the hand crack. The first crux for me was the right facing corner at the bottom of the photo. A perfect hand crack ends, and then what? It took me many ups and downs to determine that.<br> <br> Photo by Lenny Miller.
Not exactly an action shot, but this shows the route from the belay. Notice Lenny's twin 7.x dental floss ropes.<br> <br> Photo by Lenny Miller.

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Lenny Miller
Unknown Hometown
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