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On the 3rd and last pitch. This pitch is 8 or easy 9. It's way runout above the ceiling at the skyline above Chuck with the difficulty depending on how directly you climb. Maybe 5.6 or 7 if you climb straight up. Fun on TR. <br /> <br />The old bolt is in the groove at the bottom left of the photo. Chuck chose to climb the natural line directly above the belay and right of the bolt, but should you choose to climb directly at the bolt, there is some gear, and the moves at the bolt are not particularly hard.
Bindy just below the bolted roof.
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At the crux at the end of P2. There is a bolt to the left of my hip and another one just above my head. These bolts are unnecessary, because 1) You've just led some spicy 10 trad to get to this point and so, presumably, you are a competent trad climber, 2) there is excellent gear at my knee level, and 3) there is a small but good brass nut at my head level just a bit below the level of the higher bolt. <br /> <br />Photo by Chuck Graves.
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By Drew Spaulding
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 30, 2013

Just below the roof, one flake that I used to pull on with my right hand is gone now (in the last few years). And, there's another flake that is super loose just below the second roof bolt. This flake will pull off into someone's hand soon...be careful!

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At the crux at the end of P2. There is a bolt to the left of my hip and another one just above my head. These bolts are unnecessary, because 1) You've just led some spicy 10 trad to get to this point and so, presumably, you are a competent trad climber, 2) there is excellent gear at my knee level, and 3) there is a small but good brass nut at my head level just a bit below the level of the higher bolt.

Photo by Chuck Graves.

Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Jan 9, 2005
On this route:
Direct Cop Out (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b )
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Photo Of: Ivan Rezucha