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All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Lower Dream Canyon > Plotinus Wall > Left Side > Golden Slumber (5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b)
Approaching the "hand crack". Trad piece on the left, bolt on the right. From Mr. Sandman I looked across and thought for sure this was an easy hand crack, but it's totally rounded--bad fingers at best. We swung around below the bolt to a good stance right of the crack and climbed up from there, mostly using s shallow right facing corner rather than the crack.
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Look, no bats, just a fixed 0 TCU in here.
Ryan Pederson on the finishing moves to the chains.
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Ivan Rezucha
Oct 10, 2004
“Approaching the "hand crack". Trad piece on the left, bolt on the right. From Mr. Sandman I looked across and thought for sure this was an easy hand crack, but it's totally rounded--bad fingers at best. We swung around below the bolt to a good stance right of the crack and climbed up from there, mostly using s shallow right facing corner rather than the crack.”  

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Nearby Photos

Ryan Pederson on the finishing moves to the chains.
Relax.
Plotinus Wall, left side.
Mike R. beginning the crux.
Mr. Sandman, Golden Slumber, Sleepless In Boulder.
On the easier middle ground; mostly trad gear here. There are some strenuous but not too hard moves to get to this point.<br> <br> Photo by Paul Rezucha
Art of Dreaming and nearby routes.
Looking up Golden Slumber.
Low on the climb.
Look, no bats, just a fixed 0 TCU in here.
Approaching the "hand crack". Trad piece on the left, bolt on the right. From Mr. Sandman I looked across and thought for sure this was an easy hand crack, but it's totally rounded--bad fingers at best. We swung around below the bolt to a good stance right of the crack and climbed up from there, mostly using s shallow right facing corner rather than the crack.
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