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I was trying to avoid rope drag by starting high and left on a pedestal and traversing into the route. It didn't really cut down on drag (though drag wasn't terrible), but it did make me about 20 feet runout on 5.9 thin face moves.
Below the final ceiling. You can see how Greg worked the double ropes. There was bad rope drag on the left rope after the final traverse right. Use 2 or 3 long runners on the last piece on the left rope. Once you are at the belay, flip the left rope left so that it runs straight up for the second.
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Great photo with great light! I am dead center in the photo but barely visible. Isis is the huge sunny right facing dihedral. There are hard routes up the sunny face. Photo by Chuck Graves.
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Great photo with great light! I am dead center in the photo but barely visible. Isis is the huge sunny right facing dihedral. There are hard routes up the sunny face. Photo by Chuck Graves.

Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Sep 19, 2004
On this route:
Ramses (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b )
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Photo Of: Ivan Rezucha