Nicola balestra leading the 3rd pitch on a sunny <br> day in November

All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tow… > Doub-Griffith (5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a)

Nicola balestra leading the 3rd pitch on a sunny <br>
day in November

ID 1203732 ·

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Rob in the middle of the ~25ft runout to the next good gear....

Pitch 1.

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steve dieckhoff

Nov 21, 2003

“Nicola balestra leading the 3rd pitch on a sunny
day in November”

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Nearby Photos

A scramble up The Doub-Griffith.<br>
<br>
Photo by Cedar Wright.

Eric Doub, climber.

Scott Bennett on the first ascent of the "DG Direct Finish".<br>
<br>
Photo by Mike Schlauch.

Rob in the middle of the ~25ft runout to the next good gear....

Nicola balestra leading the 3rd pitch on a sunny <br>
day in November

Pitch 1.

Rob getting psych'ed up for the big runout...

At the 3rd bolt after the step up move. We moved straight left to the arete from here to a thin layback flake (that takes a green Alien) and then up the arete. These moves left were the crux of the route for me following. Very thin feet then layback with no feet. It looks like you could climb straight up from where Vern is.

After the crux. There's a hard move up the the fixed nut (the third piece of gear) and then another hard move up and right. It's not really a finger crack--it's closed off except for a few openings which we used as laybacks. The original route went right from where Verne is, around the corner to the Super Slab P1 belay. The 11a roof variation is up and left from Vern. The recommended route then angles right above the roof to the arete of Dubious Grafitti.

The third pitch from below the Super Slab belay. The route traverses straight left to near the arete. Then up the face and, in places, the arete, to the overhanging headwall. It then diagonals right on positive 5.9 or so climbing to meet up with Super Slab near the top.

Looking down from the top of the new 12a bolted variation on the last pitch.

James getting the TR onsight on the crux pitch. Great way to get a little scared on Halloween....

CD pitch 3 (or pitch 2?).

Unknown climber following the last pitch. Photo taken from Psychosis.

Looking across the headwall. I had always thought this was the P3 crux, but it turns out to be about 5.9. Steep, but big positive holds. From where Vern is the route goes up a little and then pretty much straight right to join Super Slab.

On the runout between bolts 1 and 2. There's a bit of a hard move just above the first bolt, then it's pretty easy until another pretty hard move (9 or so) to get to the second bolt.

Jerry.

Rob is at the final 5.10a crux. There is a so-so purple Alien placement at your waist.

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