I always rap when I clean and top-rope off of my own draws...but oddly some local told me that it's cool to TR and lower off in CCC...what's up with that? Can't be the local ethic around here.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Sep 9, 2013
As many of you know, it's really hard to get a single local ethic, such a stated ethic probably represents a minority of experienced locals. Obviously, with the popularity of climbing certain routes, toproping and lowering through hardware such as the above necessitates more frequent hardware replacement and compromised safety for others until such replacement by motivated and financial capable folks occur. So, when in doubt, consider toproping through your own carabiners and rapping after your final ascent of the line. Thanks!
While I agree wholeheartedly with Leo as well, it is also well past time when the very dated hardware like the cold shuts used here should be replaced. For myself, the high grade steel used by Fixe, for example, should be used as replacement wherever this old gear is found. A lot of routes that were established 10 and 20 years ago were put in without appreciating the amount of traffic they would see or the stunning increase in the number of climbers that has emerged in the last several years.